Crate Train Your Puppy in Four Steps

Your puppy needs some confinement to help with housetraining, to prevent undesirable habits like chewing from developing, to give you a break, to encourage good sleeping habits and to keep it safe while it is growing and learning. If you have read the previous information about housetraining, you will know how it helps!

An 8-9 week old puppy will sleep 20 hours a day.

A 10-12 week old will sleep 18-20 hours a day.

A 13-20 week old will sleep 15-18 hours a day.

After the 20th week, most will sleep 11-15 hours a day.

This information will help you create a schedule that works for you and your puppy’s needs and allow you to make changes at the appropriate age.

Dogs wake up with the sun. If your puppy is waking earlier than you’d like, keep the sleeping area very dark. Up to 16 weeks, a puppy can sleep 8 hours at night, but will need a potty break. After 16 weeks, most puppies will sleep through the night without waking.

Puppies can adapt to just about any schedule if their needs are met. Consider your lifestyle and schedule and then create one for your puppy to thrive in your home.

Crate training is a process. Crate training is not placing the puppy in a locked crate and leaving it alone.

If your puppy refuses to go in, barks or whines for more than 10-15 minutes, soils the crate, or tries to escape the crate, something has gone wrong. The longer the puppy is unhappy about the crate, the harder it is to reverse. Be careful and do it right, one time!

Some owners do not want to crate train. They feel guilty about confining the puppy and when it cries, it tears at their heart strings. I get it. I use the crate minimally, but trust me, you will be happy to have this behavior for so many reasons! Including:

Your puppy will have place to retreat to when tired, if ill or recovering from surgery.

Keeps puppy safe when full supervision cannot be given.

Prevents practicing undesirable behaviors (e.g. chewing) when unsupervised.

Provides a clear boundary for children to understand when not to interact with the puppy.

Accelerates housetraining, as puppies are less likely to toilet near their bed.

Teaches a puppy to sleep soundly and all night.

Prepares puppies for vet stays. All vets will crate dogs before and after surgery.

Helps promote calmness.

Gives you a place to put puppy when you need a break.

Buy a crate that will suit your dog at full, adult size and that you like. Styles matter when something goes wrong. If your dog learns to bend the wire, you move to plastic. If he chews through the plastic, we need a tactical strength! Some look like tables, which are great to go with your décor. Some are made of cloth. I like the simple wire crates the best, because they are the least expensive and the fold up flat. If you have a very small dog breed, I also like an additional cloth travel crate for the car. Even tiny dogs should not ride in your lap while driving!! Small, cloth travel crates can be a great help with a tiny breed. They can be in the crate next to you on the couch, on a plane, or to be carried from house to car.

A crate is not the same as a pen. A pen is big enough to hold more than one puppy and for puppy to run and play in. This is useful, but not for learning to be housetrained.

Know that we train a puppy to go in and tolerate a crate, no matter where the crate is located. You can move the crate to different locations at different parts of the day or even have more than one in your home. Wherever the crate is, the puppy can learn to be there and be content if trained properly.

I find most puppies prefer to be near you when sleeping at night, but if this bothers you, go ahead and place the crate away from your bedroom. Be sure you can hear the puppy if he cries out. A baby monitor or just an open door should work.

Set your crate up when your puppy is not around. The noise may scare it and then you will have the wrong association.

Step One: Getting Puppy Going and in Out of the Crate Happily

Sprinkle a trail of great treats into the crate and allow your puppy to find them and eat them. Do this a few times to get the puppy used to walking in and out freely.

Intermittently throughout the day, (when your puppy isn’t looking) sprinkle more treats in the crate, hide a stuffed Kong or great chew.

Your puppy will come to think that the crate is the magical treat dispenser, and should start spending more time in it and being more confident around it. Watch for your puppy to start regularly entering the crate to ‘check’ for treats, and ideally occasionally resting in there.

Do some training, so puppy will go in when you ask him to. Here are three videos of me doing a first crate training session with a puppy.

https://youtu.be/Lyk8JqOqcGc

https://youtu.be/NHWwe6Qg734

https://youtu.be/ea1Kow4PuYQ

Step One (B) Train Puppy to Sleep in his Crate Overnight

Puppies typically get up with the sun and go down with the sun. Keeping them up late does not help you in anyway, in fact, it can make puppies tired and bite more!

Your puppy should eat dinner several hours before bedtime. Puppy should have plenty of attention, training, play, exercise and potty breaks before being placed in his crate for the night.

When it is time, take him out for one final opportunity to pee or poop. Then, lure him in the crate with a trail of treats or your cue, “go in” if it has been taught. Leave puppy with a good chew or toy. Many clients have said the Heartbeat Snuggle Puppy helps a lot. I have found a warm water bottle works to comfort puppy. Leave puppy to sleep.

It is ok if he cries. If the crying persists for more than 10-15 minutes, take puppy outside again. No treats, no play, nothing but the opportunity to potty and your supervision. Pick puppy up and place him back in the crate and leave him to sleep. Repeat this process until he falls asleep.

Young puppies need one-to-two-bathroom breaks during the night. Most puppies wake twice for a couple of weeks, then one time for a couple more weeks and can sleep through the night at about 12 weeks, on average.

Do NOT set an alarm to take puppy out. Wait for your puppy to tell you he needs to get out. When he wakes and cries, carry him outside, place him on the grass and wait. Add a leash if you need to feel comfortable at night depending on your situation. When he “goes” pick him up and place him back in the crate. No kisses, no treats, no praise. Go back to bed! If he wakes a second time, repeat this. Most puppies wake around 12-1am and 4-5am. In most cases the puppy will drop the first wake up and then the second one, when his bladder is able to hold it all night.

Only pick your puppy up for bathroom outings and to be placed in the crate as described above. During the day, you want to encourage your puppy to walk in and out of his crate and in and out your door and walk to go potty.  This is a short phase of a few weeks, and your puppy will sleep through the night. If not, please let me know!

Step Two: Start Locking Puppy in the Crate for 1-10 minutes at a time.

Place a stuffed Kong in the crate and lock the door. Wait for puppy to scratch and “ask” to be let in. Open the door, wait until puppy enters and then lock the door. Leave him to chew in there for a couple of minutes and then open the door.

Practice your “Go In” cue and training and start to lock the door. Click and treat a few times, then open the door again. You can walk away a little, then come back and click and treat. Repeat this a few times, as long as puppy is happy in there.

Some trainers recommend feeding a puppy in the crate. Feel free to do this too, to build a positive association, but remember, that we want a feeding ritual that will make sense when your dog is grown.

Step Three: Have Your Puppy Spend More Time Alone and in the Crate, 10-120 minutes, several times a day.

Puppies thrive on schedules. If you are following the advice for Housetraining, you are building a predictable feeding and outing schedule. Now you can focus on naps times. Here is a reminder of the amount of sleep an average puppy needs each day.

An 8-9 week old puppy will sleep 20 hours a day!

A 10-12 week old will sleep 18-20 hours a day.

A 13-20 week old will sleep 15-18 hours a day.

After the 20th week, most will sleep 11-15 hours a day.

You can watch your new puppy and see when and how long he naturally naps for, or you can put him on a schedule that works for you. When leaving a puppy alone in a crate, there are two key points to keep in mind; first, make sure all his needs are met and second, put him in for a nap when you know he is tired.

Your puppy may cry. It’s ok! If it goes on for more than 10-15 minutes, take puppy outside to see if it needs the bathroom. Play with him for 5-10 minutes and place him back in the crate to sleep. This will make sure you have met his needs and ease your mind and heart. Leave the puppy in the crate for his nap.

Once your puppy is comfortable in his crate for 30-120 minutes, you can move on to the next step.

Step Four: Leaving Puppy in Crate When You Leave Home

Your puppy should have all his needs met: not hungry, exercised, and comfortable, before you leave him alone.

Make sure the crate is comfortable. If it’s hot, place a fan nearby and only a basic towel or nothing in the crate. If it’s cold, give him a bed to snuggle in and a hot water bottle.

Use your cue, “Go in,” and lock puppy in the crate. Toss a few treats in there and leave him with a safe chew or toy and then go. No goodbyes or fuss at all.

Leave puppy for 30-120 minutes. When you return home, open the crate door and encourage your puppy to follow you outside to go to the bathroom. No fuss here either.

You can leave puppy alone longer and longer as the weeks go by. If you find an accident in the crate, he was left too long. Make a time adjustment. I know this is hard, but if done correctly, you will have a safe and happy dog and useful tool for the dog’s entire life! Take the time to do this right and only do it once. Get your family on board. Use a pet sitter or a neighbor. Adjust your work schedule to meet puppy’s needs. Get it done!!

Final Points

·        Ensure the crate is the proper size and adjust this as your puppy grows. Too small or too big can create problems. Your puppy should be able to move freely around, change sleeping positions, and stand up tall.

·        Make it comfy, but not too hot. You don’t need a bed in here, just a towel or a cheap throw blanket is great.

·        Never force your puppy into the crate! This will create anxiety or frustration at being confined against his will and will set back your training.

·        Don’t interact with your puppy while he is in the crate. Don’t allow children to crawl inside or try and play with your puppy when he is resting inside. Do not allow guests to meet him in the crate.

·        Keep its usage age appropriate. Your puppy can sleep in the crate all night (6-9 hours approx.) Puppy can take naps in it and be in the crate while you are out for age-appropriate amounts of time. A puppy can stay alone and hold it during the day for its age in months plus one. If you must leave your puppy for longer, it will need someone to come let it out for potty and movement or you will need to leave it in a pen with a pee pad. A dog should never be in a crate longer than 6 hours (during day hours) without a break!

·        Train this correctly from day one and use it correctly always. Crates can be very useful! I use the crate as part of my guest routine in my Adolescent Program.

·        Don’t fixate on the crying or whining. Crying is how a puppy expresses a need. The need may mean he has to go to the bathroom, is hot, is cold, or is lonely. Use your common sense. Meet your puppies needs and teach him gently that being alone is just part of life, but he is ok.

·        Never use it as a method of punishment. Time outs do not teach puppy anything. If you are mad at your puppy and place him in the crate, he will feel it is a negative thing.

·        Avoid confining your puppy before you have taught him to like it. This leads to anxiety or frustration and results in whining, barking, or howling or scratching at the gate. You will need a few days off work or get some extra help to teach your puppy about the crate.

·        Do not overly rely on the crate to keep your puppy safe. It should not be used excessively because you don’t have time to entertain, train, socialize, or play with your dog.

·        Stay steady and consistent. Please do not let you r puppy sleep in your bed and then try to crate train him or put him in your bed when he cries so you can sleep more. You only sabotage yourself.

·        Keep the crate and everything in it clean and fresh. Capitalize on a dog’s natural desire to stay clean. If your dog sits in a dirty crate, he will lose this instinct. Wash the bedding often. Clean up any food mess. Rotate toys and chews.

·        My preferred crate usage is as follows: sleep in the crate at night from day one through the fourth month. Take naps in it and stay in it when I am not home from day one through the 8th month. From 8-12 months, I give more freedom and use the crate less and less, until it is only used as a management tool for a dirty dog of my guest routine.

·        If a puppy or dog eliminates in a crate, it has most likely been left in the crate longer than it could hold its bladder.  Sometimes the space is too large, which can encourage a puppy to eliminate. Placing pee pads or other soft, absorbent things may also lead to accidents in the crate. The crate only encourages puppies to hold “it.”  Many dog owners make the mistake of leaving the puppy for too long in the crate when no one is home, causing the puppy to have a negative experience in the crate. Stress can cause potty accidents.

·        When puppies are crated for too many hours and for too many months; they, as well as their owners, become dependent on the crate to control the puppy’s behavior. This is detrimental.  Dogs are not meant to be caged.  Crating a dog for a workday of 8-10 hours often results in an under-exercised, under-stimulated dog. This can lead to hyperactivity, destructiveness, mouthing, barking, and jumping, as a means to receive the attention and stimulation dogs crave. It becomes a vicious cycle. Owners crate the dog to prevent such things, but crating the dog also causes these behaviors to develop.

·        As soon as a puppy is house-trained, there needs to be a plan to give the puppy more freedom and teach it how to behave in the house.

Maggie's Favorite Things

Dog food:

Fromm Dog Food - https://www.frommfamily.com/

Dog Treat:

Boiled chicken

Dog Supply Store:

Doctor’s Inlet Feed Supply - 535 College Ave. Middleburg. Best place for dog nutrition information, quality food sources and healthy chews.

Fun place to take my dog:

Mandarin Park, Walter Jones Park, Trails behind the Equestrian Center (cecil field)

Toy:

Tail Teaser by Outward Hound - https://outwardhound.com/tail-teaser.html#:~:text=INDOOR%20%26%20OUTDOOR%20FUN%3A%20The%20Tail%20Teaser%20is,keep%20your%20dog%20happy%20and%20physically%20in%20shape.

Harness:

Freedom No-Pull Harness (not the training leash!) - https://www.2houndsdesign.com/

Leash:

Long cotton leash - https://www.amazon.com/Justzon-Cotton-Training-Lead-Black/dp/B01L5REDO0/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B01L5REDO0&psc=1

Seat belt -

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Dog+Seat+Belts&qid=1627738380&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-5

Chew:

Raw bone - from Drs. Inlet Feed, Sprouts, Publix or your local butcher

Treat Pouch -

https://www.amazon.com/EzyDog-Wearable-Waterproof-Training-Dispenser/dp/B011U3ZQTK/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ezydog+treat+pouch&qid=1627738431&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-5

Food Dispensing toy:

Kong - https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Classic-Durable-Natural-Rubber/dp/B000AYN7LU/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=kong+toy&qid=1627739211&sr=8-2

Supplements:

Ultra Oil (available at Drs. Inlet)- https://www.healthypets.com/ultraoil.html?msclkid=dc09399560b71c9b58b05890343022a6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Shopping&utm_term=4581183926849084&utm_content=All%20Shopping

Nupro - (Available at Drs. Inlet) https://www.nuprosupplements.com/dog.htm

Does Your Puppy Use Your Living Room Like a Jungle Gym?

My question though is regarding jumping on furniture. If myself or my husband is sitting on the couch we are obviously able to block it and make her sit and ask to come up, or just not let her come up at all if it’s not an appropriate time using the “down for manners” training. However, the difficulty we’re having is if we aren’t right there she will dive all over the furniture, run across it, dive on the kids on the couch, etc. and it is very frustrating. I’m not sure what to do to prevent that because obviously I cannot stand guard over the couch all day long. Also, once she’s up, she runs like it’s a game and will only sometimes get off when I tell her, other times I have to pick her up or grab her collar and pull her off. I’ve read in the booklet to not acknowledge bad behaviors, but that’s hard to do when she’s literally running or diving on top of the kids and scratching them and they’re crying for mommy to make her stop. Obviously I know part of it is she has some energy to get out, though sometimes she will do it even when she’s super tired (zoomies). 

Any suggestions? 

__________________________________________________________________________________________

Practice the directions below as many times as you can in the next few days and involve the whole family.

Pup, Pup, Puppy:

1.     For no particular reason and at no particular time; begin walking to the kitchen.

2.     Clap your hands and sing, “Pup, Pup, Puppy” over and over until your puppy enters the kitchen to see what all the noise is about.

3.     Praise your puppy, ask him to sit and give him a food reward.

4.     After several repetitions, your puppy should run enthusiastically behind you whenever you sing this and head to the kitchen for a treat.

5.     Once your pup’s reaction is solid, you may begin to use this whenever you need your puppy to stop biting someone, move away from something or just grab his attention.

The Puppy routine will redirect the puppy to you in the kitchen, but you will need to do the following to have lasting results and a well-behaved dog.

• Create a bedtime routine for your dog - get him to bed by 9pm!

• Spend time teaching puppy to lay on the floor, not the couch by using a default down.

• Make sure pup is getting lots of mental and physical exercise and attention from you during the day.

• Confine the puppy when you do not want to or cannot supervise.

• Teach the kids how to establish boundaries around themselves.

• Teach puppy how to stay calm near the kids, no matter what they are doing.

For more help:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgYV6jA0UZ7TRra5zPu54-Q/videos

 https://maggiedogtraining.com/new-products

The Dog Commandments

1.  Looking at, talking to and touching a dog reinforces whatever behavior is occurring.

2. Set the dog up to succeed. Do not put him in a situation to fail or be “bad.”

3. If you teach a dog what to do, there is almost nothing left to correct.

4. Bad, correction, wrong are all human things – in the animal world, behaviors are functional or not – they work or they do not work.

5. Growling and barking mean back off. If you ignore this warning, you might get bit and you will certainly put the dog in a position to fail.

6. Do not touch, talk to, or mess with, in any way, a dog that is eating, chewing something valuable, or sleeping.

7. Dogs do what you teach or what you allow.

8. A dog cannot “behave” well if it doesn’t feel safe, and/or its basic needs are not met.

9. Humans are smarter than dogs and can access information. WE are responsible for a dog’s behavior in our care.

10. Dog’s have three main ways to cope with stress and conflict: play with it, flee from it or fight it. If you see one of these behaviors, the dog feels threatened. Make him feel safe, and his behavior will change.

11. You have access to food, treats, toys, comfy couches, the outdoors, other dogs and can provide attention and affection. Use these things to reward the behaviors you want, rather than giving them away for free and teaching nothing to the dog.

12. Alpha, dominance, and being boss are buzz words from about 30 years ago. Get with the times!

Puppy? Why Choose My Classes? Why Not Just Go to Your Local Big Box Pet Store?

It’s easy, around the corner and the obvious choice, right? Sure is.

Then why do I see so many people and puppies AFTER they go to the pet store classes?

Because they are impersonal, ordinary, and no comparison to my training services.

I often receive inquiries about puppy classes. People with puppies can be very impatient! They get the pup and quickly realize they don’t actually know how to house train it or stop it’s sharp bites. Families know they are getting a puppy weeks in advance, but call and need help ASAP! Like every other industry or service, there is plenty of competition, so why choose MMDT over another?

I have classes EVERY week. You can enroll at anytime as long as your puppy is at least 10 weeks, with 2 sets of shots and I have an opening.

The pet store holds a 6 weeks class, meaning you may wait 6-7 weeks to get in. They don’t take puppies until they have 4 sets of shots - around 16 weeks.

Each class is an individual topic, so you can begin immediately.

Pet stores curriculum builds, so if you miss one class, you might get confused or miss something.

Classes can be taken in any order and repeated if desired. My topics are chosen to help you get what you need quickly - jumping, biting, leash skills, sit, down, manners, focus on owners, ignore distractions and off-leash play. I teach one thing at a time, so you can focus on it and get it. I build slowly resulting in dogs that retain their learning.

Pet store classes teach - the traditional obedience commands - come, sit down, leash, watch me, take it, leave it, drop it, stay, shake. Then you take intermediate and advanced to learn the same things around distractions. Can you wait 6 months to learn how to handle your dog around distractions?

I sell a great harness for $30. You can trade it in anytime for any reason until your dog is full-grown. This is a large savings.

You can buy up to 4 harnesses in the first year to fit your puppy, but yes, you can buy one at the Pet Store - but not the one I sell. They have never heard of it.

If you forget something, I provide it for you.

At the pet store, you can buy something or go without.

You receive a clicker and a book! The book has clear instructions for everything your puppy will need from 8 weeks and beyond. My book contains information that has been updated throughout all my years of training.

You might get some inferior handouts if you have a good trainer at the pet store.

You can call me, email me, message me on social media and I will help you.

You can’t get the personal number or email of a pet store trainer.

I can come to your home if there is a problem there.

A pet store trainer will not come to your home.

You can reschedule a class up to 24 hours in advance and not lose the topic or your money.

If you miss a class, you lose a class.

My facility is clean - no one other than my clients enter the building.

The pet store allows any dog in the store and the sick ones march right up the main walkway to the vet clinic in the back.

Your kids and family are welcome at my place. I am a mom and a grandmother.

You can have family attend your pet store class too.

I am more expensive. 6 classes are $180. That is $50 dollars more.

The Pet store chares $129 for 6 classes.

You may video record the class if you wish.

Not allowed in the pet store.

I am very well educated. I hold three training certifications as well as awards and continuing education credits and have over 10 years training experience.

Your pet store trainer has 4 weeks of shadowing another pet store trainer and a book that explains how to teach each behavior.

I almost always run over, so most people get an hour and a half class!

Pet stores do not give you anything more than you pay for.

If your puppy doesn’t love it, I change things until it does!

If your puppy is scared, barky, or disruptive, you might be asked to leave, step out of the training area, or told that your dog failed the class.

I can be your dog’s trainer as long as you need me. I have adolescent classes and private sessions for ANYTHING!

Pet stores have crazy turnover. You will be lucky if you see the same trainer from puppy to the next series.

If your dog has a behavioral issue, I usually tell you! I will diagnose it and explain what needs to happen to improve it and be able to provide the training and follow through you need.

The stores will enroll a dog with a behavioral issue far beyond the skill of the trainer to increase their numbers and stats. When this kind of dog enrolls, it wastes time, behaviors get worse, and the owners feel like failures. Then people call me.

I am skilled in many methods - old, new and some you’ve never heard of.

They use luring - an old method that requires food be in your hand - people and the dog become dependent on the food rewards to do the behaviors asked.

My facility is located on the Westside - it’s not fancy, sometimes too hot or too cold.

There is a pet store near everyone.

You can read about, enroll and pay on my website.

You can read about, enroll and pay on the pet store’s website.

You can call me to ask any questions or express concerns prior to attending class, between classes or after classes.

You can call and ask questions to the person who answers the phone at the pet store.

You can ask me about dog body language, play, day care, dog parks, nutrition, behavioral problems, best toys, grooming, clipping nails…just about anything to do with a dog and if I don’t know the answer, I will find it for you. I only recommend things I trust - I owe nothing to no one and YOU provide me my income. YOU are very important to me.

You can ask your pet store trainer questions about dog things, but she has no experience with owners beyond the pet store class room and has a bias in recommending things the store sells.

You can see videos of your dog on my YouTube, Facebook and Instagram and maintain a relationship with me throughout the years.

So, if you wonder why you should choose my puppy classes over your local pet store….my answer is simple. I am better in every way.

The Treat Lady is Here! Why and How to Use Food Rewards Correctly

“He is just doing it for the food.”

“Here is the treat lady!”

“Do I have to walk around with food all the time?”

“I don’t want to have to give my dog a treat every time he listens.”

“My dog is not food motivated.”

“My dog listens to you because you have chicken.”

The above statements are wrong, ignorant, and disrespectful. Imagine I hire a carpenter to build me something and make fun of him because he uses a hammer? Imagine I tell a race car driver, that it is the car that wins? Imagine if I told a photographer that the picture was great because of the camera? My work is training dogs and my tools are many - one of which is food.

I know the above statements are not made to insult me; people simply do not understand and appreciate the skill-sets involved in my field of work. I also know that these statements are made because people feel insecure and concerned that I can get their dogs to do things that they cannot. It doesn’t always feel good when your dog responds better to me than you. I know. I get it. But…it’s not the food. It’s how I use it. Anyone can pick up a paintbrush, but an artist makes art. I wish more people would acknowledge the art and skill involved in dog training and stop minimizing what I do. In an effort to educate and assist, I am going to tell you some very important things that I do that get YOUR dog to work for ME and if you take it to heart, it will work for you too.

“He is just doing it for the food.”

There are basically four ways that dogs (and people) learn. Positive Reinforcement (we add something nice), Positive Punishment (we add something not nice), Negative Reinforcement (we take away something nice), or Negative Punishment (we take away something not nice.) Something nice often depends on the dog - except for food -they all like food. Something not nice also depends on the dog - but all dogs avoid pain and fear. The rest is in the details and the other two ways to learn really need to be thoughtful and situations need to be created in order to use them consistently and correctly.

I choose Positive Reinforcement more than any other method to train a dog for many reasons. All dogs like food. Food is easy for me to use. Food is easy for you to use. You are going to feed your dog anyway. Food rewards have no negative side effects (when given in the appropriate amount for each dog.) Food is cheap and readily available. Food can be weaned as the behavior gets stronger. When used correctly, food rewards can be removed completely and the behaviors will remain. I enjoy, as well as most dog owners, giving food to my dog. It takes very little skill to use food rewards. It is safe, effective and fun for any age human to use food and train a dog. Food has been used since the beginning of time to form relationships and to control other living things.

“Here is the treat lady!”

This is just stupid. Do you want me to show up unprepared? Do you know who I am? I am not showing up with a collar, so how else do you want me to train your dog? This just tells me so much about you!

“Do I have to walk around with food all the time?”

The more you reward your dog immediately after it does a behavior you like, the faster it is trained. So, really, this is up to you. I like to reward as many behaviors as possible, as quickly as possible, so I am willing to wear food in a pouch, so I am prepared. I know this is a short-term situation, so I don’t have an issue with it. If you don’t have a reward ready, your dog won’t learn as fast. Simple stuff.

“I don’t want to have to give my dog a treat every time he does what I ask.”

OK -I get this. I don’t want to work everyday to make money. There are lots of things I don’t want, but I have to do to get results. Read above about how to train a dog. If you don’t want to feed it a food reward, there are three other ways to train, so you may want to call someone other than me or start studying and getting some dog training skills! My question to you is why not? Why don’t you want to give your dog a reward for good behavior? Usually this thought is related to a myth like, I want my dog to do it because she wants to please me. Don’t get me started….I want my husband to do things to please me too, but guess what?? He has his own life and agenda and I am lucky if I get what I want once in awhile. What most people know about dogs is from TV and movies and if you need to be told what is wrong with that, I will need to write another blog post.

“My dog is not food motivated.”

If this were true, your dog would be dead. You are not using the right food and in the right way. Often, owners leave food down all day, allowing the dog to eat when it wants. This is not healthy, normal, or good for training. Feeding your dog meals, means he will become hungry at predictable times in the day and you can optimize on this. A hungry dog will work for food. Most “treats” sold in stores are crap. Dogs like real, fresh foods. Use real meat like chicken or turkey and stay away from processed dog treats. Dogs are natural and respond best to natural things. Train your dog before a meal or use his entire meal for a training session. Vary the food reward - eggs, fish, carrots, green beans, sweet potatoes, and blueberries are things that most dogs love. Don’t be a victim of advertising. Dogs like food! Your dog’s meals and “treats” should equal his daily intake of food. It’s what you feed and when you feed it that makes a difference in behavior and allows you to make great strides in training without your dog gaining unnecessary weight.

“My dog listens to you because you have chicken.”

This is true, but there are so many other reasons, in addition to the chicken, that make your dogs listen to me. I am consistent. I have great timing. I know what I am doing. I know when to feed and when not to feed. I do not load my hand with food, bait your dog, or tease your dog with food. I have a measured way of using the food rewards. I know the four stages of using food to train a dog. I feed the right amount - I don’t use more than I need, nor am I stingy when your dog needs the reinforcement. I have clear body language. I know how to train a dog!! If you have ever thought that I can only train your dog because I have chicken, then why hire me?? Go get yourself some chicken and you can do it, right? NO! I have many skills, one of which is using food rewards -even the way i deliver the treat is a skill. I hear this almost every day and i cringe at it. I know your thinking behind it, so I ignore it, most of the time, but Good God! I have three certifications, 10 years experience and thousands of happy clients. If it was just the chicken,…….

So here is the summary.

If you want to train your dog quickly, have food rewards handy. Think about your dog’s daily intake of food and what you want to accomplish with it. Most dog bowls contain anywhere from 50-200 pieces of food -that could reinforce 50-200 behaviors per day! Vary the food reward to keep your dog motivated. Stop thinking like a human with an ego. When your dog does something you like, feed it. When your dog does something you dislike, walk away.

And lastly, please be kind to me. I ignore a lot of rude comments. I hold my tongue more than you know. I go over and above to help you, even when you sabotage the process. If you didn’t need me, you wouldn’t have called, so please don’t belittle, question and insult the way I do my job. I listen to my mechanic because I drive a car, but know nothing else about it. Without him, I wouldn’t be able use my car. I appreciate his skills and trust him to care for my car. I don’t argue with him, talk down his prices or dare to think I could repair my own engine. My prices are fair. I know what I am talking about. I will do whatever is needed to get you to be happy with your dog.

The Secret to a Great Dog

There are some jobs that no matter the results, the people get paid. For instance, we all know that if we see a doctor and we remain ill, he still gets paid for his time and efforts. If you see a therapist and are still troubled, he still gets paid for the sessions to which you went. When you pay me, you pay for my time and effort spent with your dog and my knowledge, expertise and hands-on skills. But, when it comes to obtaining results, much like taking the doctors advice and doing the things the therapist asks, this is where you and I need to work together. I can produce results from your dog. But, in order for you to achieve the same results, you need to participate. You need to read the handouts provided to you, you need to watch the videos I send, and you need to practice what I show you over and over again to learn the hands-on skills. You need to put in the time, the effort and bring the enthusiasm and care to your dog during training time,.

It is said that “training is in the environment.” The training that your dog receives from me does not live inside the dog. and remain there for you whenever you want to access it. Behavior changes with each interaction and each environment the dog experiences. When I am with your dog, I am all in. Everything I do is to achieve the most change in behavior as fast as possible, which means that I reward almost every single thing the dog does that I like. I spend the time focused on your dog, knowing that the more I can help him do the right things, the more rewards he will get and the stronger and more frequent the behaviors I am training will occur.

I don’t usually feel frustrated or angry or disappointed in your dog’s behavior. I don’t try to figure out why the dog does what he does. I focus on what I want to achieve and I reward that, a lot. I leave handouts because some people learn through reading. The handouts serve to fill in whatever you may have missed during our time together; or if I am training your dog without you present, they help you understand what I am doing during the videos and direct you on what you should do with your dog. The videos are provided (or taken by you) because some people learn by watching. They also serve as proof that I worked with your dog and am achieving results. I talk to you in the videos. The videos are also valuable, as you can save them and use them later for another dog if you like, or use them to review things you slacked on.

It is my job to deliver information to you and the dog. I am a teacher and a coach in the subject of dog behavior. I will repeat myself. I will make things simpler. I will alter my usual routine if I feel it will help. My job is to teach you skills to manage your dog’s behavior and to advise you about things you may not know about dogs. I will do my best to motivate you to work with your dog. To try again. To keep going. What isn’t mine, is the responsibility for what happens to your dog’s behavior after I stop seeing your dog or even between sessions. The dog belongs to you and so does the responsibility for his behavior. If you don’t understand something I show you, I will keep teaching you until you get it., but there is nothing I can do if you do not put my advice in place and you do not practice the training.

I have heard every excuse in the book. I know when a client is exaggerating, lying and avoiding answering a question. I know who reads the handouts and who watches the videos. I know who really wants a well-behaved dog and who just wishes for one. I know when people lie to themselves because they are too busy to have a dog, yet they do. I know why people tell me their dog gets plenty of exercise, but it never leaves its property. I know that many people simply have a dog they are not equipped to handle. I know when people have too many dogs. I know when people really don’t want their dog anymore but can’t say it out loud. I know when a client just wants me there to listen to him complain. I know that when a client is upset it isn’t always about the dog in the room. I know when possessing a dog is soothing a need in the human, but the human doesn’t even know it. I know when a client gets a puppy to lessen their pain of losing their other dog. I know when people try to recreate a cherished memory by getting another dog to be just like the previous dog. People get dogs for many reasons, but the only good reason to get a dog is because you like dogs and want to spend time with a dog doing dog things.

One time in a weak moment, I spent $1000 on a diet plan. I allowed myself to fall for the talk and the testimonials. The salesman said everything I needed to hear and I wanted to lose weight without doing the actual work sooooo badly, I was willing to spend the money. The plan was for 2 weeks. I made it 6 days and couldn’t do it anymore. I knew that if I followed the plan, I would lose the weight, but I couldn’t do it. It was too many pills and potions at too many times and was too specific about what I could eat and when. And, I was STARVING!! I didn’t ask for my money back or even blame the salesman. I blamed myself for knowing better and dishing out the money for something that I already knew how to do. It’s no secret. Eat less and exercise more.

So here is the secret to a well mannered dog…..

First, only get a dog if you have the time, money and energy to care for it properly.

Second, choose a dog that is right for you -don’t try to squeeze a square through a hole. If you aren’t going running, don’t get a Weimeraner. If you have never had a dog before, don’t get a Malinois. If you want to take your dog everywhere, don’t get a Bulldog! It’s too hot here.

Third, you must be honest about what your dog needs and then you need to meet its needs immediately and continually. If you do not train it when you first get it, it will develop behavioral problems and problems never get better by waiting longer to deal with them.

Fourth, do not hire someone to do what you should be doing. There is no magic in the expensive board and train places. They spend A LOT of hours with your dog and deserve to be paid, but you won’t get what you pay for -YOU didn’t do anything. If you want a well-socialized dog, don’t drop it off at the daycare around the corner, because there is nothing good or social about 40 dogs running around with no purpose in an enclosed space all day with a person supervising them who has no particular knowledge about dog behavior or the care of dogs. Quality care is something you must pay real money for and in order to influence your dog, you must spend time with it.

Fifth, do not blame your dog or your dog trainer or dog walker or dog daycare person or anyone else who handles your dog for you, if the dog does not please you and your wishes for its behavior. It is YOUR dog.

And lastly, when all else fails and you are unhappy or sick of the dog or need to “get rid of” your dog for any number of made up reasons - please do not dump it on some poor, generous rescue organization with no money, no resources and too many dogs already in their care. If you bring a dog into your home and do not care for it properly, it is your responsibility to figure out what to do with it when you realize you made a mistake.

I love helping dogs and people. I will go to the ends of the earth to help someone who admits to a lapse in judgement or admits to being lazy or admits to simply not knowing any better. I will not work very hard to help someone who got a dog he shouldn’t have, for not taking care of it and for not providing for its needs. oh…and for goodness sake, I will help you when you ask for it, but if I help you, you better listen to me! Good coaches know who is coachable and who is not!

Puppy Socialization; The Good, the Bad and the Just Don’t.

The Critical Period of Development is between 8 and 16 weeks for a puppy.  This period is like an open window in the dog’s brain for new experiences and learning about his world. Your growing puppy has many developmental windows and if you are aware of them and use them to your advantage and training timetable; the behavioral outcome of your puppy will be amazing. What your pup is exposed to, in a positive way, becomes normal and acceptable. What your pup is exposed to in a negative way or not exposed to at all, becomes something to fear and avoid and maybe even fight. Most dog owners these days are aware of the need to socialize their puppies, but unfortunately, many owners go about it the wrong way and their efforts, however noble, have the opposite outcome than they hope to accomplish.

Socializing your puppy means exposing him to the world and what it holds in a positive way; in your puppy’s time, and by his opinion of a good time, not yours.

A pool can be fun if the pup can dip a toe in when he chooses, but being tossed in or falling in a pool can give the experience a whole other flavor.

Ten minutes of play with one other puppy might be fun versus an hour in the dog park with questionable company.

Sitting in the vet’s waiting room being barked at by bigger dogs or sitting in a vet’s waiting room getting bits of chicken for looking at you is a very different experience.

Simply exposing your puppy to people, places, things and other dogs does not make him socialized. In fact, many well-meaning owners make this mistake. In a daycare, your dog will meet many people and other dogs. Does your dog like it? Do the handlers care or know about good socialization? Do they make playgroups according to play styles or just put a bunch of dogs together? How do they supervise play and do they know how to prevent a fight? Does your puppy get punished? How long is a good play session? Will he be able to get proper rest at daycare? A quality daycare can answer all these questions and more. I am not aware of this kind of daycare…..it is rare if it even exists.

How about the dog park? To me, it’s a gamble at best. You don’t know anyone there. You don’t know the dogs there. There is no supervision by a professional. How do you know what is good play versus bullying? Do you know what to do if your pup gets in a fight? If your pup doesn’t come when called and you do not read canine body language, you are entering a place where the dogs may work things out themselves. What if the other dogs guard their owners, a ball, the gate? What if the other dogs have no rules and are not under their owners’ control? What if one person brought three dogs? I could go on and on. You need to know what you are doing if you go to a dog park. Fights happen all the time. Bad ones. You cannot go back and undo a dog fight. If one occurs when your pup is young, it could leave a permanent result emotionally, creating a real fear of other dogs.

So how do you make sure your puppy is getting good socialization?

Get enrolled in a puppy class with off-leash play that is supervised by a professional. Learn your puppy’s body language. Know how to help your puppy grow in confidence and develop play skills that are good and safe. Teach your puppy a solid come when called. Look for a quality trainer that uses positive reinforcement training methods. Classes should have clear rules and you and your puppy will learn a lot. Ask if you can watch a class before you enroll, to see if it meets your needs.

Choose playmates for your puppy and invite them to your backyard to play. Make sure they take frequent breaks before they get over-aroused.

Avoid meeting other dogs while on a walk. We don’t encourage our kids to play with strangers and you shouldn’t let your puppy either. You may need to be firm with people who run up and want to pet your puppy, especially if your puppy is shy. If you don’t protect your puppy from a bad experience, he will fend for himself. Don’t give your puppy a reason to learn how effective aggressive behaviors can be! Each puppy is an individual. Respect your puppy and his space. Don’t force him into things if he is reluctant. Coach him, encourage him and help him conquer challenges at his pace. Take your puppy to places where you want him to be comfortable. Take him in your car, your boat, to meet your brother’s dog, to the farmer’s market, to the vet and groomer, etc. Take him to these places for short periods of time, frequently, until you observe the kind of behavior you want for him as an adult. Bring some chicken and feed him for being confident and for paying attention to you. If he gets overwhelmed, leave and return with a plan to help him feel more comfortable.

Your vet may warn you about Parvo and other contagious diseases that are dangerous for your puppy. Some say wait until the puppy receives four sets of shots -which is usually by four months of age. Your vet’s role is to give you the best medical advice to keep your puppy healthy. My job is to give you advice to obtain the best results behaviorally. These two viewpoints may be in conflict. YOU must decide what is right and what is safe and what the risks are to socializing your puppy immediately or waiting until four months of age. If you wait until your puppy is fully vaccinated, you may compromise his optimum developmental window for socialization. He may be less confident, less adapted, and fearful of some things. If you begin the socialization process at eight weeks, you may expose your puppy to a disease that he could catch.  

You could compromise by exposing your puppy to safe ways to socialize. Puppies can safely interact with vaccinated adult dogs. Quality training facilities do not allow unvaccinated dogs into the building. They also use a specific cleaner that kills Parvo and other viruses to improve safety. You can walk your puppy in your neighborhood with little risk. You can take him to well-kept parks and friends’ houses without dogs or vaccinated dogs. You can invite people and dogs to visit the puppy at your home. Many people take their dogs to Home Depot, Lowes and the pet store. Remember -lots of people do this too and there is no one at the door asking for vaccine records. The big pet stores have a vet clinic in the store where sick dogs are, which makes the whole store a potential hazard. Stay away from obviously sick dogs, stray dogs, areas that are saturated with feces, aggressive dogs, anything likely to scare a puppy, like fireworks.

The American Veterinarian Society of Animal Behavior has a Position Statement that states: “The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing overstimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.”

Lastly, do not stop socializing your dog after puppy class. This is a process that needs to continue throughout your dog’s life. You can lessen the intensity and frequency, but do not think you are all done at four months. Your puppy needs to get out and about often to maintain the good you provided as a puppy.

Six month old, Rio is at a hotel in Miami.

15 year old Callie is happy at the vet.

Maggie introduces adult, Josie to puppy, Snoop.

Just two adorable puppies at Puppy Play ~n~ Learn

Some of the greatest people and their dogs maintaining socilazation at Dog About Town.

Adolescent, Tommy, at Losco Park.

Two adults dog playing nicely.

My Dog Knows He is Wrong and Other Stupid Stuff People Say

I know I am ignorant and uneducated about many things that don’t come up in my life or that I am not interested in knowing about, but I know a whole lot about dogs. I hope this inside (from a trainer) perspective helps to educate you too.

I have been a trainer for 10 years. I work about 60 hours a week with dogs of all shapes, sizes and behavioral issues. When I am called in to help, I assume the family wants my advice, opinion and a plan for training, so it always shocks me when they argue with me about what the dogs knows and doesn’t know and how I’d like to address the problem. The following are things people say that need to be checked at the door.

My dog knows he is wrong.

Oh really? Wrong and right involve some sort of moral code, of which a dog does not have. If he knows he is wrong, why does he keep doing the wrong thing? How does he know?

He does it to show me he is mad at me.

Oh really? So when you leave for work, the dog comes up with a premeditated plan to express his dissatisfaction about being left home? He plans? He shows you?

My dog understand what I say to him.

Oh really? Then why are you saying sit 5 times and he is still standing? oh right, to spite you.

My dog doesn’t listen to me.

Oh really? Have you taught him your language? Are you listening to him?

My dog is Alpha.

Oh really? I feel like a broken record here -read my other blogs…

My dog bit me but it was an accident.

Oh really? Dogs are masterful with their mouths and bodies. They can barely swipe your face with their teeth if they want to warn you, but if they bite, it was on purpose or it would not have happened.

I want my dog to be friendly to everyone.

Oh really? How much money and time are you willing to put in to make that happen? Is that realistic?? Please stop getting me all excited about your dog’s potential with your grandiose lies. If you really only want to spend 15 minutes a day with your dog, tell me so I can make a plan for that!

My dog is stupid or stubborn.

Oh really? It may be you. If you haven’t taught him anything, he can’t respond to you. Who is stupid?

My dog doesn’t have a good appetite.

Oh really? Maybe you are feeding him in such a way that he is bored. Dogs like work, not a free meal.

My dog loves the dog park or daycare.

Oh really? How do you know? Does he come home and rave about his day and his friends?

Please ask yourself what is true about dogs . People are highly influenced by television -which has nothing to do with real life - they believe what they read no matter the source. They see what they want to see. They absorb opinions from all over and form their own not based on fact, but often on frequency. Myths are heard to make go away.

Dogs do what works. Dog function in a world of safe or dangerous. Dogs express their emotions, thoughts and everything else through their bodies. They do not speak English or any other verbal language. It is a lot easier for YOU to learn your dog’s language than for him to understand yours. Dogs behave like animals -they scratch, jump, growl, bite, roll in dirt, dig holes, grab unattended food, pull the leash to get to stuff, kill small animals, and react one of three ways to almost everything -they fight it, play with it or avoid it.

Stop putting your human junk on your dog! If you don’t enjoy dog behavior, don’t get a dog. I cannot turn your dog into a furry human or a furry statue. If you take the time to understand the dog you have, you will be a lot happier than fighting nature.

So if you call me to your house, please listen to me. You are only wasting your own money by arguing with me on your dime. Tell me your issue and I will help you and I will show you the results, not talk about them.

Understanding Labels in the Dog Behavior Field

This is not a paper to be graded -this is off my mind writing as what i know and understand about my field. I may have missed several titles and schools as there are many. Anyone can say he or she is a dog trainer : the field is unregulated, which means one does not need any special training to be a “trainer.” This is because society does not understand dogs and therefore cannot understand those who work with dogs. This is amazing to me, since dogs have lived beside us for so long. There is a great discussion among professionals for the need to regulate the industry.I do not feel it will help much. Charlatans will always find a way to do what they want. Most consumers are influenced by what they see in front of their faces - commercials, ads and Facebook posts. Only people with significant dog behavioral issues do any research about who they hire to help them. Until the general population is properly educated about dogs, dog behavior and who can help them -regulation will not help.

Obedience Instructor: a person who teaches dog owners how to train their dogs. She may talk and/or display the steps to teach the dog obedience cues such as come, sit, down, stay, etc.An instructor teaches a group of students and may or may not ever handle her clients’ dogs.

Dog Trainer: Anyone who says he is one. He may teach classes, or offer private sessions or anything in between. A Dog Trainer may use any method or methods to train a dog -which means make it obey or behave in the desired way and solve behavioral issues.Some Dog Trainers have received schooling from somewhere, but have not been tested for knowledge by an independent organization. There are endless ways to become a Dog Trainer.

Certified Dog Trainer: a person who has received some schooling and passed a test to become a dog trainer. These are often basic level trainers. Some may have no experience, some require 2 years. Each certifying body determines the qualifications needed for this title. ABCDT -Animal Behavior College Dog Trainer . This is a year long program that has book study, testing and 18-30 hours on hands on experience under a mentor. IAABC-CDC - International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants -Certified Dog Trainer. There are also Certified Dog Trainer Advanced and Professional Dog Trainer Instructor certifications. There are many ways to become a Certified Trainer. There are many other schools and organizations that issue a certification in some for of trainer or technician.

Professional Dog Trainer: A person who works part or full-time and has some credentials, which may be a Certificate of Dog Training from a school or organization. A Professional Dog Trainer’s role is to teach the dog and/or owner to practice the proper behaviors to teach the dog to listen to commands or cues and modify minor behavior problems. Education and experience varies greatly. Top organizations to get certified through are CCPDT, IAABC and The Academy for Dog Trainers and Karen Pryor Academy.

Certified Professional Dog Trainer: All of the above, but has a Certification from an independent professional organization that proves at least some level of knowledge and documented hours of training dogs. two biggest are CCPDT and IAABC as well as Karen Pryor Academy and The Academy of Dog Trainers.

Certified Canine Behavior Consultant: A person who has worked with fearful and aggressive for at least 500 hours and has passed a test from an independent organization. A person with this title has expertise and experience working with difficult cases and has skills working with people and follows ethical guidelines.

Veterinarian Behaviorist:Veterinary behaviorists are trained to address the relationships between an animal’s health, environment, experiences and its behavior. They have extensive knowledge of psychotropic medications, their uses, potential side effects and interactions with other medications, and are licensed to prescribe them when indicated. These are the Psychiatrists of dogs. The closest Vet Behaviorist is in Gainesvile at UF.

Animal Behaviorists: Behaviorists are certified through Animal Behavior Society or have a masters degree in Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists have a Master’s Degree in a biological or behavioral science and at least two years of professional experience in the field. Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists have a doctorate in biological or behavioral science with five years of professional experience in the field. Most do not practice, but teach, do research and provide evaluations and recommendations that then get implemented by a good trainer. If we have one in Jax, I am unaware -possibly working at the zoo?

These labels fly around Jacksonville. Go to the person who has the qualification for your dog issue .You do not want someone with not enough nor so you want someone with more qualifications than you need. Look up the letters after their names. Look up the schools they’ve attended. The responsibility is on each dog owner -YOU decide who to hire for YOUR problem.

I have the following - ABCDT -Animal Behavior College Dog Trainer - One year of book study and tests as well as 30 hours with a mentor.

CCPDT - Certified Professional Dog Trainer - 300 hours of working as head trainer with dogs as well as a letter from another CCPDT recommending me for the test and passing the test. To maintain this certification, I am required to earn CEUs from continuing education.

CCBC -Certified Behavior Consultant - 500 hours of working directly with fearful or aggressive dogs, a letter of recommendation and passed the test. To maintain this certification, I am required to prove that I have continued my education by earning CEUs.

In addition to the above, I had the best mentor of all time, Bob Hammesfahr -of which no organization can quantify and why I do not believe regulation will make the field better. The best trainers seek the best education!

I am not the trainer for everyone. I charge a lot to go to a client’s home because I have a lot of hours and dollars invested in my job and I am one of only two people in Jacksonville to hold a CCBC. I am not trying to toot my horn, but to answer the many questions and misconceptions about dog trainers and help you better choose the right one for you.

Beyond the Bone -Enrichment for Dogs

Beyond the Bone

Walking your dog around the streets of your home is one of the best things you can do to keep him physically and mentally healthy and well socialized and well adapted to normal things like strangers, vehicles and other dogs. But sometimes, we can’t get out there for various reasons or our dog needs a little more activity. Here are some alternative ways to exercise your dog’s body and mind.

1.     Hide toys, food stuffed toys or chewies in your house or yard and allow your dog to find it and enjoy it.  This can be done very simply while the dog is watching or can become a whole other level of challenge for the dog to sniff it out.

 2.     Build your dog a digging pit. My dogs have one and all their dog friends love it too. We dug up a space that gets some shade, removed about a foot of grass and dirt, created an edge with spongy things that look like bricks and dumped in some fine sand to fill it up. We later added a mini palm tree for more shade and aesthetics. It keeps the dogs cool when they lay in it and digging provides exercise and enjoyment in a location that I don’t mind holes! You can even spice this pit up by burying bones and toys in it once in awhile to keep the dogs interested. An indoor digging alternative is the iDig.

3.     Try a Tether Tug (www.tethertug.com) if your dog loves tug-of-war. This toy entertains your dog without you being present. Other like items that cost less are a Tumbo Tugger or the Highland Farms Select Dog Interactive Training Tug Toy

4.     A Tail Teaser (www.chewy.com) is a great toy for all ages and all types of dogs, so even a small child can play safely with the dog and tire him out quickly. Keep the toy on the ground to prevent injuries.

5.     For about $10, a kiddie pool can be a great addition to your dog’s exercise and enrichment, especially here in Florida. Fill it with water, balls, or any size cardboard items and toss some kibble in there for search and find.

6.     Find an enclosed space that is rarely used and let your dog run free while you sit and watch, walk alongside or use a chuck-it or tail teaser in the open space. Tennis courts, baseball fields, even playgrounds are often empty if it’s during school hours or drizzling.

7.     Invite a friend with a friendly dog over to play.

8.     Put your dog’s bowl away and feed him only from toys like a Kong, Kibble Nibble, Squirrel Dude, Snuffle Mat or anything that food can be put in. There is a feeding toy for every type of player. My dog’s favorite is simple – put her food and some scraps in a solo cup, cover with broth and freeze. When I tear the cup away, she has a frozen treat. On a really hot day, fill a large Tupperware with water or broth and stick some treats or toys in there, cover it and freeze. Dump the frozen treat in the yard and your dog will be cool and entertained for hours.

9.     Toss your dog’s food all over your backyard and let him go. Free, simple and your dog will take a long time to find each piece.

10.  Sit on a park bench or in your car with a  nice view and play a simple, but profoundly effective training game with your dog. Let your dog sniff the air, watch things pass by and generally ignore you for as long as he wants. When your dog looks at you, feed him a treat. Repeat each time he looks at you. This teaches the dog to focus his attention on you, that you are highly valuable, and gets the two of you out and about.

11.  Doggy IncrediBUBBLES taste like peanut butter and are ok to injest.

12.  A LickiMat Soother is a very inexpensive and soothing activity. Smooth on some pureed meat, canned dog food, smashed banana, Greek yogurt or anything you can think of that your dog will like and let him lick to his heart’s content. These are made to stick on your bathtub too to assist with bathing by keeping your dog stationary and entertained.

13.  Don’t neglect the simplicity of a good chew. Your local feed stores and online stores have lots to offer. Bully sticks are healthy, digestible and come in all sizes. No-Hides are pricey, but digestible and dogs really like them. Real marrow bones from Publix are cheap and a good teeth cleaner -feed them raw! Duck heads, chicken feet, tracheas, dried fish….you name it. The stinkier, the better.

14.  If you have games you play that I haven’t mentioned, please share them with me at my email below.

The History of Dog Training

Dog training originated in the early 1900s to train dogs for war.  After WWII, it came out of war and into civilian homes. 

The methods used then are called Traditional Methods.  The main methods to teach dogs behaviors were negative reinforcement and punishment.  The main tools used were choke chains, prong or pinch collars and shock collars.  The tenets of Traditional training are that dogs learn through consequences or operant conditioning.  To teach a “sit”, a traditional trainer may pull up on a choke collar to encourage the dog to sit, and when the dog complies, the trainer releases the pressure.  The bad goes away.  It can be condensed to the saying, “do it, or else.”  Traditional training is still thriving today.

Since the 1940s, another kind of training has developed which is based on animal ethology or studies of the dog’s natural behavior and what it means.  This kind of training is often referred to as Pack Theory; Dominance based training, or dog whispering.  These trainers believe that dogs establish dominance in hierarchies in the pack and in order to have control over your dog, you must achieve the Alpha Status.  This gained popularity in the 1970’s and 80’s and continues to be very popular and very misunderstood.  The big names responsible for this type of training are The Monks of New Skete and Cesar Milan. This kind of training is based on popular belief and not on scientific studies.  A lot of this thinking claims to be based on studies on wolves, but recent information has found that dogs and wolves don’t really have all that much in common and the whole premise is shaky.   Dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years and there are significant behavioral differences between dogs and wolves.

Positive Reinforcement Training also began in the 1940’s but didn’t gain popularity until about 20 years ago.

The first positive reinforcement trainers were students of the great psychologist, BF Skinner who coined the term, operant conditioning. Operant conditioning is a method of learning that occurs through rewards and punishments for behavior. Through operant conditioning, an association is made between a behavior and a consequence.

The first positive trainers couldn’t compete with the very successful traditional trainers and ended up training for performances on TV.  Compared to the Traditional Methods, It wasn’t taken as a serious method of dog obedience. 

Ian Dunbar is the most recent pioneer of Positive Dog Training. He is the founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) and created the first off-leash puppy training programs that made training fun, easy and safe.

More and more scientific studies have been done and the findings are very heavy on the side of being positive.  There seems to be an overwhelming amount of research suggesting that not only can dogs learn new behaviors effortlessly through positive reinforcement training, but major behavioral problems like fear biting and food aggression can be addressed very successfully.  What’s more is that it is fun and easy for dogs and people.  Now service dogs, police dogs, competitive and performing dogs are all being trained using positive reinforcement and all are very well trained.

So if traditional methods and positive reinforcement are both based on operant conditioning and both are successful, why have I chosen the Positive over the Traditional?

The most important reason is that I train family dogs, not competition or performing dogs, but dogs that live in houses with real people and often children. 

I don’t want to do anything that could make things worse or endanger the people in the household. The use of punishment in training has been studied a lot and the studies show that most dangerous situations involve dogs that are stressed.  Punishment further stresses a dog. 

Several studies have shown that dogs that were shocked after a bad behavior had cortisol levels up to 300 times the normal levels.  Punishing an already stressed out dog creates a ticking time bomb.  It would be irresponsible to recommend anything that could be potentially dangerous or possibly cause a bad behavior to worsen.

 I also believe that we are smarter than dogs and should be able to teach them in a way that isn’t harmful.  I have had great success with an array of dog behaviors without ever having to force or punish a dog to convince him to do what I want.

I’ll end with this thought….all the Orcas at Seaworld are trained with positive reinforcement methods because they couldn’t get those whales to perform using any other method.  I use Positive Reinforcement because it works.

When Can You Trust Your Dog Free in Your House?

There are two main reasons to put your dog in a crate; to assist in speedy housetraining and to avoid destructive chewing. For owners of multiple dogs, there are other reasons to keep using a crate, which this post will not address. Deciding to give your dog freedom in the house when you are not home can cause a lot of worry. Here are some pointers to help you succeed.

When should you let go of the crate? My preference is to allow your dog to sleep out of a crate around 4-5 months and to be free completely before a year. Your dog should be housetrained; which means you know how long your dog can hold his bladder and he knows how to ask to go outside to go. Your dog should know the difference between household/human items and things that he is allowed to chew. And lastly, your dog should be ok when left alone.

I like dogs to be housetrained completely by 4 months -any longer and you are creating a problem. Dogs can be “chew toy trained” at the same time that you housetrain. Your dog is housetrained when he/she has not had an accident for at least 3 weeks and knows how to communicate to you that he/she needs to go outside. This is a rigorous schedule for some, but in the long run, a little more work in the beginning means a lot less work later. Puppies need a lot of attention and supervision or they make mistakes. Mistakes teach them the wrong information. Setting your puppy up to succeed is the key!

The two most important tenants of housetraining are very simple: 1) Get your puppy outside when it needs to go and reward it heavily when it does. 2) Prevent your puppy from going inside. How you do this is up to you -but that’s all you really need to know.

The fastest way to chew toy train your dog is to feed him all his food from toys and from your hand for good behavior. My favorite toys are: Kong, Kibble Nibble, Squirrel Dude, and a muffin tin with 24 holes and 24 tennis balls. I also use food tossed in the grass, along the toe-kicks in the kitchen to prevent counter surfing, and from my hand for lots and lots of reinforcement to tell the pup what I like and will pay him for doing. I also provide many other ways to chew: Bully Sticks, Tail Teaser, chasing any toy that I toss, raw real meat bones, cow hooves, Virbac chews and Whimzees. If you feed your dog his meals from toys 2-3 times a day, reward him throughout the day for good behavior and occupy him mentally and physically, you teach him what to do each day. You also prevent him from learning fun things on his own and from making mistakes.

All young dogs need at least 3 periods of exercise per day that is at least 20 minutes and structured -which means, he isn’t just put outside and not monitored, but you are with him, actually making sure he is exercising for at least 20 minutes, 3 times a day. This can be a walk, playing fetch, in a field off-leash, playing with another dog, using a Tail Teaser or Tether Tug, etc. Keep in mind, this is a minimum amount. Most dogs benefit greatly from a lot more exercise! Take your dog to trails on a long leash and let him sniff to his heart’s content on the weekends. Find an empty baseball field or tennis courts and play fetch until he can’t go anymore. Dogs need this! They need freedom and to drain their energy.

The last piece of feeling confident when leaving your dog alone in your house is knowing you’ve taught him how to feel secure when you are not around. This is easily accomplished by not spoiling your dog and giving into his every desire and demand. Ignore you dog when you need to and don’t feel bad about it! If he asks rudely for your attention by pawing at you or barking, do not reward this with talking and petting. Set rules and boundaries and enforce them. This makes a secure and confident dog. Make your comings and goings very nonchalant. Reward your dog for calm behaviors rather than getting all excited with him.

If you’ve missed my chosen times for training, you can still get there, but you’ll need help and a commitment to your dog. Dogs do what we teach them or what they are allowed to do.

I love you....

I met Bob in 2010 when I was first trying to start my own dog training business. I didn’t like him at first; I had respect for him, but I thought he was arrogant. I didn’t read him correctly because I never met anyone like Bob. He could come off as arrogant, curt, even rude; but he wasn’t any of those things. He was a man who knew who he was, what he was good at and that he had something valuable to offer others.

I was lucky that Bob saw something special in me. I didn’t know it at the time, but he changed my life and gave me a huge gift.

I was very lucky to be one of the few that he believed could learn from him. Bob was a rare breed – a person who knew he had something special, something valuable, yet was willing to give it away to another.

When I train dogs, I frequently ask myself what would Bob do? Bob’s way of teaching was simple -he expected me to pick up what he put down. After a training session, Bob would always ask me the same question: what did you learn? When I called him with questions about one of my cases, he would ask me, what do you think you should do? He taught me to think for myself, to trust my abilities and to know my worth. He inspired me. When I watched him with a dog is was like watching someone walk on water. I wanted to be like him – to do what he did. Bob believed in me and praised me. How many people can say they had a friend like that?

After years of training on my own, my relationship with Bob changed. In the beginning, I would always have a dog question, but as time went on I had more questions about people. Bob understood the limitations of humans and accepted them. He lived in peace that I wish I had. Our mentor/apprentice relationship turned into friendship and then I really saw him. His business was business, but his friendship to me was so much more. He could be a very soft person, very loving and sensitive. He genuinely cared for those he let into his life. The last thing he said to me was “I love you.”

Our relationship revolved around just 2 things -dogs and family. Here are some things that Bob taught me that apply to both:

Every moment is an opportunity to learn. Good experiences can inspire and motivate and bad experiences can cause one to shut down.

Proper motivation works wonders.

Praise the good and ignore the bad.

It’s not personal.

Anyone can change, if they want to.

We really only need a few things to be happy.

Be patient.

Trust my gut.

One can learn so much by just sitting and quietly observing.

If a task is too hard, break into pieces and master one piece at a time.

There is a fine line between punishment and retaliation.

Timing is everything.

Take time to rest.

Fairness has nothing to do with life.

There is nothing better than being in the company of those you love.

Bob was my mentor and my friend. I feel lost right now without him, but I know he has taught me everything I need to know to be as great as he was. I am so thankful to have known him.

Dogs and Suffering

I am only competitive in one area of my life. My business. I guess it’s a good thing -not 100% sure. I don’t care about materialistic things at all and don’t care to keep up with the Joneses, but when it comes to my business, I will do whatever it takes to be the best. It’s my baby. It’s me in business form. The business name is Maggie Marshall Dog Training. I am not concerned with how much money I make or how the public views me; only what my clients think. This is what keeps me going. I want each and every client to feel that he or she is the only one. This is incredibly hard to pull off. At one point, I have had 31 clients, and most of them are quite complicated and needy. I live with my husband, who also owns his business, my son whom I homeschool,  my almost two year old grand-daughter, my dog and I dog sit for 5 of my clients year-round. Time is a commodity that is precious in my family.

I give this background, not for empathy, but for understanding. I am juggling a lot and I am not a juggler. I’m not sure anyone truly understands the life of a business owner unless he is also a business owner. Personal life and business life happen at the same time, no matter how hard we try to keep them separate. It’ s impossible. I have taken a client’s call while on route to a funeral. I have stepped in my backyard while on the phone, so I could hear my client speak above the dogs and kids in my house. I took a call this morning in my bed that awoke me after an 11 hour work day the day before. I receive calls, texts, emails, Facebook messages, twitter messages, Instagram messages, Linked in, Next Door, you name it…I get it. It’s not easy folks. There are no boundaries unless I set them.

This was a hard week. Two clients of mine put their young dogs dogs down this week after several sessions with me. How do I I feel? Much like the owners of the dogs I imagine….guilty, like a failure, sorry, responsible. You name it, I feel it. They called me for help, paid me and their dogs are gone. No nice way around that fact. Doesn’t feel good.

I did receive the most amazing and generous notes from each of the owners telling me how thankful they are to have had my help.  My help?? Your dog is gone. How did I help?

Dogs are animals that have behaviors. Behaviors are encouraged or discouraged by the environment. I am part of the dog’s environment for about 2 hours every other week. My influence is greater upon the owner than the dog. I can’t live in the house with the dog. I can’t take the dog to my house. I have to help in a way that makes sense. I coach the owner to live with the dog she has chosen. I get called in when the problem is too much to handle. I begin working at the worst possible time – I am working against the current the whole time. I’ m not a miracle worker -there are no miracles with dogs. It’s hard work. It’s schedules and protocols and work. Then there is reality. The soft, furry, cute puppy you have fallen in love with is growing up and you are afraid of it. You took at it at 6 weeks because you didn’ t know it was too early. You felt bad when you heard of its rough beginning and thought a good home would help it, you bought it from a “breeder,” so it must be a good pup. Good people make what seem like good decisions; only it doesn’t work out.

Getting a dog is complicated by all kinds of stuff -the knowledge and feelings you have about your previous dog(s), the way you think dogs should or should not behave, the relationship you had with your previous dog…these all dictate the way you think and behave with your new dog, only the new dog has NO idea about all that stuff.

I train about 100 dogs and families a year. I see things you can’t imagine. I am covered by bruises and bites on a regular basis. What you think about dog ownership, I do not. I think the worst. I think about the bites, the claws, the unexpected. I see it. You don’t. Then we meet. You have one to 6 dogs in your life. I have over 1000. We aren’t even on the same wavelength. Then, the worst happens. Your dog tries to bite you. This changes everything. Dogs are aggressive. People are too. It’s normal. We don’t want to see it, but it’s part of life with anything that is alive. Until we take it seriously, we will never learn. When you enter a relationship with a person, a dog, an employee, what have you; you risk being hurt. When you bring a dog into your home, no matter how you prepare, the outcome is in nature’s hands.

I hate a sad outcome, but it happens. We are not in control of much in this life. How we think about acquiring dogs and their roles in our lives needs to change. Dogs are dying. People are suffering. We put more effort into buying our cars and houses than we do the thing that share our lives and our beds and this needs to change. If we truly value what an animal brings to our life, then we must honor it by choosing our animal carefully to fit into our lives.

A Diamond in the Ruff

This past summer we opened our hearts and home to a rescue dog. Our family was thoughtful in this decision and searched for several months before finding our girl. No sooner did she cross the threshold of our front door and proceed to vomit from the travel and excitement, we knew she had found her forever home (vomit and all). As we sat and discussed some of the issues that Nora had with the rescue worker, we knew there might be some challenges ahead. We didn’t bat an eyelash and signed the adoption papers immediately. It has been a wonderful rollercoaster, mostly of blessings, since that time.

Within about a week, I knew there was something truly special about Nora. Certainly my lack of objectivity clouded my judgment some, but her overwhelming love of people caught my attention. I thought that a dog with so much love to give would be an ideal therapy dog. I mulled this over for a few weeks as Nora and our family got acclimated to one another. Eventually I came to the conclusion that instead of wondering if she could be a therapy dog, why not actually explore that option in the real world? This is where Maggie Marshall Dog Training came in the picture. I figured if nothing else, Nora would have to at minimum, learn some manners and improve on behaviors that were at times difficult to manage. After doing research online, Maggie seemed like the best fit for our training needs and we set up a time to meet.

In that first meeting I felt instantly at ease. I didn’t feel judged because Nora was slightly out of control, and I didn’t feel embarrassed that Nora had little to no manners. All I felt was supported. Maggie calmly evaluated Nora for her temperament to see if being a therapy dog was possible, and helped lay the groundwork for her training. Turns out that yes, Nora has lots of great qualities like exuberance and love, but these same traits are what cause her to quickly lose focus and...well...you know how it goes. I learned so much in that first session. Along with the basics of training, I learned why structure was good for not only me, but for Nora as well. Dogs need rules and consistency to help them feel safe. I was surprised that Maggie never once said ‘never’ to me. She made me feel like change was possible for Nora and I was the person to help Nora succeed. Believe me, I don’t think of myself as a dog trainer. In most areas of life, I have a hard time standing up for myself and am not very assertive. Therefore, getting a wild-at-times dog to listen to me seemed like a stretch. And, it was, and, it still is...but, here’s the thing...Nora is improving.

Sweet Nora

I started training her in mid-October of 2017. Since that time and with Maggie’s indispensable support, Nora is more polite, barks less and her leash walking has improved tremendously. She certainly has a long ways to go to therapy dog, but as a well-behaved citizen of our household, she is crushing it. She’s not perfect, but she is much more manageable than those first, few untrained months of being in our home. Keep in mind, she is five years old and I am trying to undo a lifetime of bad habits so patience is the key. Patience, consistent practice and acceptance of where we are each day help me stay centered on the training path. Some days she is a rock star princess on the leash, other days she loses her mind when a new person approaches us. I’ve had my ups and I’ve had my downs with her, but I let the bad days go once I stop wishing her to be different. She is a loving little girl that wants to be loved by the world. Maybe I really don’t want her to change that much after all.

One of the hardest parts of this whole process is dealing with the judgments of the outside world. There are some days that I am so embarrassed when Nora acts up and nothing I do gets her under control. When these moments of self doubt arise, I remember why I started this process in the first place. This is all for Nora’s tremendous untapped potential. Underneath everything she is a diamond. I simply am guiding the way for the world to catch a glimpse of her sparkle.

Diana and her two boys on the day Nora came home.

Written by Diana DeVaul

Diana, in addition to being a dog trainer extraordinaire, is a freelance blogger who lives in the Jacksonsville area. She is a married mother of two boys and is blessed to have two awesome dogs. If you see her and Nora out and about, feel free to say ‘hello’. Nora will be overjoyed to meet you.

You can learn more about Diana and her family at writesforallmommies.com

Polite Greetings

Polite Greetings (without jumping):  Rather than telling your puppy “no” or “stop” when it jumps up on you or others, teach him what you would like him to do.  If a puppy learns it will receive attention by sitting, it will sit a lot. If your puppy jumps up and receives attention, whether it’s good or bad, it will learn that jumping works too. For good manners, your puppy should sit to earns treats, its food bowl, toys and access through doors.  Now we will add greeting people to that list. Your puppy should be offering lots of sits now to earn the good things in life.

Reality Check: If your dog jumps every time he meets a new person, he is learning the wrong behavior. Preventing your dog from practicing jumping is the first step to breaking the habit. When you are out with your dog, teach him to ignore people and pay attention to you. No greetings. Just sit quietly next to me and that’s it. After many instances of not greeting people, starting over with the training options below is a lot easier.

At home: Preventing jumping at home is easy. Never, ever, ever provide a reward (looking, talking, touching or food) if you puppy’s front feet are off the floor.  If your puppy if sitting, go ahead and shower him with attention.

Meeting people (leashed): If your dog is on a leash, you can prevent jumping by being prepared. As you approach a person to say hello, ask your pup to sit. If he doesn’t sit, he isn’t ready to say hello.   If he sits, go about your business, but keep a close eye on your puppy. If he rises from the sit, simply pull him gently out of reach of the person and repeat the process.  The goal is for your puppy to learn to automatically sit when he approaches people.  For best results, set up lots of meet and greets over a few days time to practice this until the pup is perfect.

For really excited puppies: If your puppy is overly excited upon greeting, he may need you to provide extra help.  Have your puppy sit a few feet from a person and hold a delicious treat in your fingers allowing your puppy to lick it but not eat it. When you have him focused on the food, ask the person to approach slowly and pet your puppy.  After several repetitions, offer the treat after the pet and then remove it altogether as your puppy learns how to greet politely.

When people enter your home: Be prepared! If you are not, your puppy may fail and jump on your guests and receive their attention and spoil all your hard work. One option is to use the on leash method above and unleash your dog after he greets politely.  A second option for cooperative guests and the easiest way to prevent jumping up and teach your puppy to love house guests, is to have your guests enter the house with treats in hand. As they enter, they should bring their hand down to the dog’s nose level (like the come here and touch my hand signal). Your puppy will know what to do! When he touches the hand, he gets a treat. Then have your guest ask your puppy to sit and deliver a few treats slowly to the pup while he is seated. Then simply invite them in and ignore the puppy until he is calm. People usually love to help. Try hanging a basket outside the door with directions and treats.  Invite people to meet your puppy and have a fun training session with your friends!

Dominance - What it is and What it Isn't

As a dog trainer, I hear the same things repeated over and over again.  Things like, “I know I need to be dominant over my dog,” “she’s the alpha,” “she’s very dominant, “or “she’s the submissive one.”  It seems a great misunderstanding of dog behavior and relationships has taken over and seems to have a life of its own.  The term “dominant” as referring to a dog, took hold first in the 1940s with very limited information and again in the 1970s when a man by the name of Dr. David Mech of the US Dept. of the Interior, described “Alpha” and “Beta” wolves (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNtFgdwTsbU).  Also in the 1970s, The Monks of New Skete popularized the term “dominance” in their book, How to be Your Dog’s Best Friend.  And now, in the present year, the term “dominance” continues to be a popular term that is promulgated by Cesar Milan on his T.V. show, The Dog Whisperer.   Both Dr. Mech and the Monks have disavowed their original theories about “dominance.”  As with anything in life, as time passes, we learn more truth about things.  There have been a lot of truths about dog behavior that have been discovered since the dark ages of dog training.

The true definition of “dominance” is a description of status within a stable canine social hierarchy.  A dominant animal controls the resources such as food, sleeping spaces and breeding rights.  A dominant animal may relinquish its privileges at any time without giving up its dominant status.  It is a quality of a relationship, not a personality type. Depending on the situation, one dog may be dominant around food, but not in other areas that resources are available.  “When the term dominance refers to status it assumes a long-standing and consistent relationship between individuals – one of whom “wins” in ritualized aggressive displays, while the other regularly, and voluntarily submits.” (By Barbara Handelman, M.Ed, CDBC)  Most people are under the impression that because wolves form packs and have status hierarchies, that dogs also follow this pattern.  But, because people live with dogs, the scenario changes significantly.  We don’t really want our dogs to battle it out in the kitchen until one claims its position in the hierarchy, do we?  When owners refer to their dogs as dominant, it says to me that they are allowing their dogs to make the house rules.  If the owner claims the dominant rank in the house, then all dogs become, well, dogs.  Not submissive, just dogs, but on equal turf.  This is similar to a parent/child or employee/employer relationship.  It’s important to recognize that wolves are not dogs and dogs are not wolves.  Dogs have been genetically engineered to live side by side with people.  Dogs will gladly accept human leadership.

Lots of dominance displays arise when an owner brings home a new dog and neglects to demonstrate proper leadership.  When dogs are given privileges freely, they can get the wrong idea. They don’t view free treats and sleeping next to you in bed as love.  They view this as very weak leadership and an open invitation to demand things.  Spoiling a dog can lead to big behavior problems.  “Domestic dogs, in general, no longer depend on submissive displays for their own survival to the extent that their canine cousins do.  Dogs rely more on humans to intervene to prevent or interrupt agonistic encounters, and after fights, to heal their wounds.  Such wounds occurring in a wild population would most likely lead to death of the injured individuals (Goodwin et al., 1996, p. 302.)”

Now on to the infamous, “Alpha Roll.”  It just plain scares me when I see an owner apply this form of “discipline” to a dog.  It’s dangerous folks, and you are not at all conveying the message you think you are.  In a wolf pack, a dominant wolf would perform ritualized aggressive displays until the other would voluntarily give submissive displays in return. If the other wolf does not concede, a fight may result. Notice the word, voluntarily. One wolf does not force another into a submissive position and neither should a human do this to a dog.  If an owner does, in fact, have a dog that is performing dominant behaviors, forcing the dog onto its side is like setting a ticking time bomb.  This is a dangerous move because it is an act of aggression on the part of the owner and eventually, the dog may see fit to put an end to this unnatural ritualized behavior with a bite to the owner’s face.   Applying force to discipline a dog encourages fear related behaviors and aggressive behaviors, as well as creating a perfect opportunity for someone to get really hurt.  I always say, we’re smarter than dogs.  We shouldn’t have to use physical force to get positive behaviors from our dogs.

So what do we do if our dog displays “dominant” behavior? I hope you aren’t still wondering what that means? Let’s clarify…he’s being bossy or attempting to control you, another dog or some resource.  We can prevent and treat dog behavior problems like people, not dogs or wolves.  In my humble opinion, we’d be foolish to even think we could dominate a dog with force.  Ever notice the large teeth on a dog? Now think of your teeth? Who would win if a fight erupted?  We need to become true leaders to our dogs.  We need to provide discipline, guidance, responsible ownership, and consistent direction to our dogs.  When the humans in the house behave appropriately and give the dog clear boundaries and rules and provide the dog with all its necessary resources in life, problem behaviors are rare.  Your dog wants you to be in charge. It is your house, right?  Ever see children who lack guidance? It’s the same for dogs. The bad behavior comes from a lack of human leadership. I will end with the best definition of leadership I’ve ever read, “Leadership is established when the owner can set clear limits for the dogs’ behavior and effectively communicate the rules by always rewarding the correct behaviors, as they occur while preventing or immediately removing the rewards for undesirable behaviors, before they are accidentally reinforced. The owners must reward desired behaviors frequently enough that they become habits. When owners can meet these criteria, their dogs will consider them to be predictable, dependable, and trustworthy.” (Yin, 2007, p. 417.) In other words, the dog is trained well!

It Takes Two to Tango

Training a dog is a lot like attending ballroom dancing classes. Picture me, the trainer, as your instructor. Okay, put me in something tight and make me Spanish if it keeps your attention! You are the guy and your dog is the girl and you’ve signed up for six lessons of ballroom dancing so you can look really great on your wedding day.

Class one: I tell you how to be a good leader. Strong arms, fixed posture and just a touch ahead of the dance so you can coax your lady into position. Then I instruct your lady to anticipate your hand on your back and to let the hand lead you into your next move. I teach you how to listen to the beat of the music and the importance of “feeling” it. I send you home with homework to practice some simple steps together.

Week One at home: You practice a little, but get frustrated because your lady won’t let you lead. She’s not listening and she’s either telling you what to do or ignoring you. You give up on day two, but still think you can catch up in class with the help of the instructor.

Class two: You arrive feeling ready to catch up and learn. The music starts and you press your hand into your lady’s back, trying to lead her and….she steps on your foot. You take a deep breath and say, it’s OK, let’s try again. This is your soon to be lifemate after all…..The music starts again and you step back, your lady steps forward and you’re dancing! All is right with the world. You are sent home with homework and you are inspired to go out and dance!

Week Two at home: You have a busy week at home and cannot find the time to practice dancing with your lady.  On the last day of the week, before the next class, your lovely bride to be begins to complain…a lot. In response, you raise your voice and say, “C’mon! Lady!” She sheepishly responds, glad to have your attention and off you go around the kitchen like you were made for each other.

Class Three: You arrive and are in a heated discussion with your lady about your busy day.  You miss almost everything I say to you, but still think you can catch up.  You begin to dance, but you are tugging at your lady out of frustration. She gets annoyed and acts like she can’t hear anything you say. She’s dancing however she wants! You get even more annoyed and stomp off saying under your breath, “you’ll never learn to dance!”

What’s the moral of the story? It takes two to Tango? Most certainly, but in this case the lady (dog) was always willing and able, but you just didn’t give her the attention she needed in order to learn. And for that matter, you didn’t tune in often enough to learn to dance either. Too much talk and not enough action. Training a dog is like learning to dance. First you must learn the steps. Then you lead your dog to the steps, and then you dance the Tango together.  Learning to train a dog takes time.  You may make progress in some areas and lose ground in others. But always know your dog wants to do the right thing. Make sure you know how to lead and your dog will follow. Make the instructions clear and reward him when he gets it right and you will move forward. If you get mad or give up, you are failing the task at hand.  Slow down. Learn two steps at a time and smile! When you take dance lessons, you are learning and participating with humans. Never forget your dog is a different species…give him a break!

Make the Most out of Toys

I enter a lot of houses in my work and I see a lot of wonderful toy baskets. People love their dogs and generously buy them toys to show their dogs how they love them. Unfortunately, dogs aren't very materialistic. Those full toy baskets just don't get used the way they should. Get ready to change that!

Dogs do what works. When they do something (a behavior) and get what they want (a toy...your attention) they repeat the scenario until it makes you nuts. A classic situation is this: you are sitting watching the tv show of your choice. Your dog drops a ball in your lap. You tell him to go away....several times, until you get sick of repeating yourself and you toss it. YAY!!! Win for the dog. He has nothing better to do than to bother you until he gets what he wants. You have taught him to do that. This is all possible because you have provided him with toys and left them out. Dogs do what works.

Now, consider this scenario: you watch your favorite show and ignore your dog. Your dog has been so well behaved and left you in peace, that you go get his favorite toy from a drawer and invite him to play with you. Win for you! You have rewarded good behavior and reinforced leaving you alone. You are also teaching him that YOU initiate play, not him.

It all depends on access. Don't give away your power! Don't give your dog access to the very things you can use to encourage good behavior. Toys are the second most powerful motivator and reinforcer in most dogs' lives!

Toys can mean many things -I divide them into categories for usefulness. Toys that you fill with food are the most important -Kongs, Kibble Nibbles, Treat Balls and the like. Chews are Bully Sticks, Whimzies, and other tasty, edible chews. The last category is toys that are only fun with human interaction -Tail Teaser, Jolly Ball, Tug Toys, tennis balls, etc. If you keep these toys away from your dog, you can decide when it's best to bring them out.

For really avid chewers and dogs that need to be kept busy, feed breakfast from a stuffed Kong and dinner in a Kibble Nibble. As soon as they are empty, wash them and put them away -do not leave them on the floor to become boring to your dog. Bring out a Tail Teaser and the jolly ball for 10 minutes twice a day and give him a bully stick at night when you are ready to settle down. This is a great use of toys. Your dog gets quality time with you, when you decide and he gets plenty of appropriate chew time. If you want to leave a couple of toys out, something like a rubber tire or a nylabone is a good choice.

The fact is, dogs need a lot more structure for their day than most owners supply. They get bored and make mistakes. Prevent mistakes by being ready to reinforce what you like when you see it. Keep him busy before he makes a bad choice. Keep him mentally stimulated through play and training and your dog will be happy and peaceful. Dogs are really smart, but they depend on us and shouldn't be expected to know what to do if we don't teach them.