Crate Train Your Puppy in Four Steps
Your puppy needs some confinement to help with housetraining, to prevent undesirable habits like chewing from developing, to give you a break, to encourage good sleeping habits and to keep it safe while it is growing and learning. If you have read the previous information about housetraining, you will know how it helps!
An 8-9 week old puppy will sleep 20 hours a day.
A 10-12 week old will sleep 18-20 hours a day.
A 13-20 week old will sleep 15-18 hours a day.
After the 20th week, most will sleep 11-15 hours a day.
This information will help you create a schedule that works for you and your puppy’s needs and allow you to make changes at the appropriate age.
Dogs wake up with the sun. If your puppy is waking earlier than you’d like, keep the sleeping area very dark. Up to 16 weeks, a puppy can sleep 8 hours at night, but will need a potty break. After 16 weeks, most puppies will sleep through the night without waking.
Puppies can adapt to just about any schedule if their needs are met. Consider your lifestyle and schedule and then create one for your puppy to thrive in your home.
Crate training is a process. Crate training is not placing the puppy in a locked crate and leaving it alone.
If your puppy refuses to go in, barks or whines for more than 10-15 minutes, soils the crate, or tries to escape the crate, something has gone wrong. The longer the puppy is unhappy about the crate, the harder it is to reverse. Be careful and do it right, one time!
Some owners do not want to crate train. They feel guilty about confining the puppy and when it cries, it tears at their heart strings. I get it. I use the crate minimally, but trust me, you will be happy to have this behavior for so many reasons! Including:
Your puppy will have place to retreat to when tired, if ill or recovering from surgery.
Keeps puppy safe when full supervision cannot be given.
Prevents practicing undesirable behaviors (e.g. chewing) when unsupervised.
Provides a clear boundary for children to understand when not to interact with the puppy.
Accelerates housetraining, as puppies are less likely to toilet near their bed.
Teaches a puppy to sleep soundly and all night.
Prepares puppies for vet stays. All vets will crate dogs before and after surgery.
Helps promote calmness.
Gives you a place to put puppy when you need a break.
Buy a crate that will suit your dog at full, adult size and that you like. Styles matter when something goes wrong. If your dog learns to bend the wire, you move to plastic. If he chews through the plastic, we need a tactical strength! Some look like tables, which are great to go with your décor. Some are made of cloth. I like the simple wire crates the best, because they are the least expensive and the fold up flat. If you have a very small dog breed, I also like an additional cloth travel crate for the car. Even tiny dogs should not ride in your lap while driving!! Small, cloth travel crates can be a great help with a tiny breed. They can be in the crate next to you on the couch, on a plane, or to be carried from house to car.
A crate is not the same as a pen. A pen is big enough to hold more than one puppy and for puppy to run and play in. This is useful, but not for learning to be housetrained.
Know that we train a puppy to go in and tolerate a crate, no matter where the crate is located. You can move the crate to different locations at different parts of the day or even have more than one in your home. Wherever the crate is, the puppy can learn to be there and be content if trained properly.
I find most puppies prefer to be near you when sleeping at night, but if this bothers you, go ahead and place the crate away from your bedroom. Be sure you can hear the puppy if he cries out. A baby monitor or just an open door should work.
Set your crate up when your puppy is not around. The noise may scare it and then you will have the wrong association.
Step One: Getting Puppy Going and in Out of the Crate Happily
Sprinkle a trail of great treats into the crate and allow your puppy to find them and eat them. Do this a few times to get the puppy used to walking in and out freely.
Intermittently throughout the day, (when your puppy isn’t looking) sprinkle more treats in the crate, hide a stuffed Kong or great chew.
Your puppy will come to think that the crate is the magical treat dispenser, and should start spending more time in it and being more confident around it. Watch for your puppy to start regularly entering the crate to ‘check’ for treats, and ideally occasionally resting in there.
Do some training, so puppy will go in when you ask him to. Here are three videos of me doing a first crate training session with a puppy.
Step One (B) Train Puppy to Sleep in his Crate Overnight
Puppies typically get up with the sun and go down with the sun. Keeping them up late does not help you in anyway, in fact, it can make puppies tired and bite more!
Your puppy should eat dinner several hours before bedtime. Puppy should have plenty of attention, training, play, exercise and potty breaks before being placed in his crate for the night.
When it is time, take him out for one final opportunity to pee or poop. Then, lure him in the crate with a trail of treats or your cue, “go in” if it has been taught. Leave puppy with a good chew or toy. Many clients have said the Heartbeat Snuggle Puppy helps a lot. I have found a warm water bottle works to comfort puppy. Leave puppy to sleep.
It is ok if he cries. If the crying persists for more than 10-15 minutes, take puppy outside again. No treats, no play, nothing but the opportunity to potty and your supervision. Pick puppy up and place him back in the crate and leave him to sleep. Repeat this process until he falls asleep.
Young puppies need one-to-two-bathroom breaks during the night. Most puppies wake twice for a couple of weeks, then one time for a couple more weeks and can sleep through the night at about 12 weeks, on average.
Do NOT set an alarm to take puppy out. Wait for your puppy to tell you he needs to get out. When he wakes and cries, carry him outside, place him on the grass and wait. Add a leash if you need to feel comfortable at night depending on your situation. When he “goes” pick him up and place him back in the crate. No kisses, no treats, no praise. Go back to bed! If he wakes a second time, repeat this. Most puppies wake around 12-1am and 4-5am. In most cases the puppy will drop the first wake up and then the second one, when his bladder is able to hold it all night.
Only pick your puppy up for bathroom outings and to be placed in the crate as described above. During the day, you want to encourage your puppy to walk in and out of his crate and in and out your door and walk to go potty. This is a short phase of a few weeks, and your puppy will sleep through the night. If not, please let me know!
Step Two: Start Locking Puppy in the Crate for 1-10 minutes at a time.
Place a stuffed Kong in the crate and lock the door. Wait for puppy to scratch and “ask” to be let in. Open the door, wait until puppy enters and then lock the door. Leave him to chew in there for a couple of minutes and then open the door.
Practice your “Go In” cue and training and start to lock the door. Click and treat a few times, then open the door again. You can walk away a little, then come back and click and treat. Repeat this a few times, as long as puppy is happy in there.
Some trainers recommend feeding a puppy in the crate. Feel free to do this too, to build a positive association, but remember, that we want a feeding ritual that will make sense when your dog is grown.
Step Three: Have Your Puppy Spend More Time Alone and in the Crate, 10-120 minutes, several times a day.
Puppies thrive on schedules. If you are following the advice for Housetraining, you are building a predictable feeding and outing schedule. Now you can focus on naps times. Here is a reminder of the amount of sleep an average puppy needs each day.
An 8-9 week old puppy will sleep 20 hours a day!
A 10-12 week old will sleep 18-20 hours a day.
A 13-20 week old will sleep 15-18 hours a day.
After the 20th week, most will sleep 11-15 hours a day.
You can watch your new puppy and see when and how long he naturally naps for, or you can put him on a schedule that works for you. When leaving a puppy alone in a crate, there are two key points to keep in mind; first, make sure all his needs are met and second, put him in for a nap when you know he is tired.
Your puppy may cry. It’s ok! If it goes on for more than 10-15 minutes, take puppy outside to see if it needs the bathroom. Play with him for 5-10 minutes and place him back in the crate to sleep. This will make sure you have met his needs and ease your mind and heart. Leave the puppy in the crate for his nap.
Once your puppy is comfortable in his crate for 30-120 minutes, you can move on to the next step.
Step Four: Leaving Puppy in Crate When You Leave Home
Your puppy should have all his needs met: not hungry, exercised, and comfortable, before you leave him alone.
Make sure the crate is comfortable. If it’s hot, place a fan nearby and only a basic towel or nothing in the crate. If it’s cold, give him a bed to snuggle in and a hot water bottle.
Use your cue, “Go in,” and lock puppy in the crate. Toss a few treats in there and leave him with a safe chew or toy and then go. No goodbyes or fuss at all.
Leave puppy for 30-120 minutes. When you return home, open the crate door and encourage your puppy to follow you outside to go to the bathroom. No fuss here either.
You can leave puppy alone longer and longer as the weeks go by. If you find an accident in the crate, he was left too long. Make a time adjustment. I know this is hard, but if done correctly, you will have a safe and happy dog and useful tool for the dog’s entire life! Take the time to do this right and only do it once. Get your family on board. Use a pet sitter or a neighbor. Adjust your work schedule to meet puppy’s needs. Get it done!!
Final Points
· Ensure the crate is the proper size and adjust this as your puppy grows. Too small or too big can create problems. Your puppy should be able to move freely around, change sleeping positions, and stand up tall.
· Make it comfy, but not too hot. You don’t need a bed in here, just a towel or a cheap throw blanket is great.
· Never force your puppy into the crate! This will create anxiety or frustration at being confined against his will and will set back your training.
· Don’t interact with your puppy while he is in the crate. Don’t allow children to crawl inside or try and play with your puppy when he is resting inside. Do not allow guests to meet him in the crate.
· Keep its usage age appropriate. Your puppy can sleep in the crate all night (6-9 hours approx.) Puppy can take naps in it and be in the crate while you are out for age-appropriate amounts of time. A puppy can stay alone and hold it during the day for its age in months plus one. If you must leave your puppy for longer, it will need someone to come let it out for potty and movement or you will need to leave it in a pen with a pee pad. A dog should never be in a crate longer than 6 hours (during day hours) without a break!
· Train this correctly from day one and use it correctly always. Crates can be very useful! I use the crate as part of my guest routine in my Adolescent Program.
· Don’t fixate on the crying or whining. Crying is how a puppy expresses a need. The need may mean he has to go to the bathroom, is hot, is cold, or is lonely. Use your common sense. Meet your puppies needs and teach him gently that being alone is just part of life, but he is ok.
· Never use it as a method of punishment. Time outs do not teach puppy anything. If you are mad at your puppy and place him in the crate, he will feel it is a negative thing.
· Avoid confining your puppy before you have taught him to like it. This leads to anxiety or frustration and results in whining, barking, or howling or scratching at the gate. You will need a few days off work or get some extra help to teach your puppy about the crate.
· Do not overly rely on the crate to keep your puppy safe. It should not be used excessively because you don’t have time to entertain, train, socialize, or play with your dog.
· Stay steady and consistent. Please do not let you r puppy sleep in your bed and then try to crate train him or put him in your bed when he cries so you can sleep more. You only sabotage yourself.
· Keep the crate and everything in it clean and fresh. Capitalize on a dog’s natural desire to stay clean. If your dog sits in a dirty crate, he will lose this instinct. Wash the bedding often. Clean up any food mess. Rotate toys and chews.
· My preferred crate usage is as follows: sleep in the crate at night from day one through the fourth month. Take naps in it and stay in it when I am not home from day one through the 8th month. From 8-12 months, I give more freedom and use the crate less and less, until it is only used as a management tool for a dirty dog of my guest routine.
· If a puppy or dog eliminates in a crate, it has most likely been left in the crate longer than it could hold its bladder. Sometimes the space is too large, which can encourage a puppy to eliminate. Placing pee pads or other soft, absorbent things may also lead to accidents in the crate. The crate only encourages puppies to hold “it.” Many dog owners make the mistake of leaving the puppy for too long in the crate when no one is home, causing the puppy to have a negative experience in the crate. Stress can cause potty accidents.
· When puppies are crated for too many hours and for too many months; they, as well as their owners, become dependent on the crate to control the puppy’s behavior. This is detrimental. Dogs are not meant to be caged. Crating a dog for a workday of 8-10 hours often results in an under-exercised, under-stimulated dog. This can lead to hyperactivity, destructiveness, mouthing, barking, and jumping, as a means to receive the attention and stimulation dogs crave. It becomes a vicious cycle. Owners crate the dog to prevent such things, but crating the dog also causes these behaviors to develop.
· As soon as a puppy is house-trained, there needs to be a plan to give the puppy more freedom and teach it how to behave in the house.
Make the Most out of Toys
Use toys to entertain your dog, to prevent problem behaviors and to reinforce the behaviors you like.
I enter a lot of houses in my work and I see a lot of wonderful toy baskets. People love their dogs and generously buy them toys to show their dogs how they love them. Unfortunately, dogs aren't very materialistic. Those full toy baskets just don't get used the way they should. Get ready to change that!
Dogs do what works. When they do something (a behavior) and get what they want (a toy...your attention) they repeat the scenario until it makes you nuts. A classic situation is this: you are sitting watching the tv show of your choice. Your dog drops a ball in your lap. You tell him to go away....several times, until you get sick of repeating yourself and you toss it. YAY!!! Win for the dog. He has nothing better to do than to bother you until he gets what he wants. You have taught him to do that. This is all possible because you have provided him with toys and left them out. Dogs do what works.
Now, consider this scenario: you watch your favorite show and ignore your dog. Your dog has been so well behaved and left you in peace, that you go get his favorite toy from a drawer and invite him to play with you. Win for you! You have rewarded good behavior and reinforced leaving you alone. You are also teaching him that YOU initiate play, not him.
It all depends on access. Don't give away your power! Don't give your dog access to the very things you can use to encourage good behavior. Toys are the second most powerful motivator and reinforcer in most dogs' lives!
Toys can mean many things -I divide them into categories for usefulness. Toys that you fill with food are the most important -Kongs, Kibble Nibbles, Treat Balls and the like. Chews are Bully Sticks, Whimzies, and other tasty, edible chews. The last category is toys that are only fun with human interaction -Tail Teaser, Jolly Ball, Tug Toys, tennis balls, etc. If you keep these toys away from your dog, you can decide when it's best to bring them out.
For really avid chewers and dogs that need to be kept busy, feed breakfast from a stuffed Kong and dinner in a Kibble Nibble. As soon as they are empty, wash them and put them away -do not leave them on the floor to become boring to your dog. Bring out a Tail Teaser and the jolly ball for 10 minutes twice a day and give him a bully stick at night when you are ready to settle down. This is a great use of toys. Your dog gets quality time with you, when you decide and he gets plenty of appropriate chew time. If you want to leave a couple of toys out, something like a rubber tire or a nylabone is a good choice.
The fact is, dogs need a lot more structure for their day than most owners supply. They get bored and make mistakes. Prevent mistakes by being ready to reinforce what you like when you see it. Keep him busy before he makes a bad choice. Keep him mentally stimulated through play and training and your dog will be happy and peaceful. Dogs are really smart, but they depend on us and shouldn't be expected to know what to do if we don't teach them.
No More Excuses
I'm tired of listening to excuses. Shut up and train your dog!
There are too many dog owners who get dogs from unreliable sources, for the wrong reasons and then do nothing with them. No training, no clear communication, very little exposure to new things, places, and people; all the while providing very little exercise for the bored dog.
Then....something changes.
They move from a house with a yard to an apartment building. They get married and the fiance has a dog too. They have a baby. You know -normal human life changes.
Poor dog.
He got no preparation for life and certainly not for life changes. These changes bring out the fact that the dog knows nothing, has no coping skills and is unsocial; maybe even profoundly fearful and aggressive by now.
Enter me.
Only, I can only do so much. I wasn't consulted when the dog was chosen. I wasn't called in for puppy training or any training. I am usually the first thing the owner does and the last resort all in one.
The poor dog is completely unprepared and is now being called difficult, bad, stubborn, and being punished for showing his discomfort and inability to cope with his owner's life change.
______________________________________________
Every day I get calls about issues that could have been prevented if the owner knew how important and helpful training is. The dog could have been prepared if his owner made time and stopped making excuses for doing nothing with the dog for days...weeks...or years.
I can help choose the right dog for you. Ask the people I have helped.
I can train your puppy - really well -for about $20 a week for the first year or a total of $300-$400.
I can teach you simple ways to do amazing things that will make you and your dog smarter and less stressed.
I can introduce your dog to another dog and it will go well!
I can help you train your dog to be prepared for LIFE! not just your house and your yard.
My heart aches for the dogs being euthanized because their behaviors are too much for people to handle -the very people who neglected to prepare the dog how to behave.
Be an educated dog owner. Today. Right now.
A Sample Schedule for Your Puppy
This is a sample day that hopefully you can adjust to meet your schedule and your puppy's needs. You can change the time frames, but try to keep the daily stats the same as below for the best outcome. When puppies needs are met, they are be happy, thrive and grow and to turn into dogs that you love to be around. Each day includes the following: (1) Food -2 meals and hand-fed as rewards throughout the day. (2) Sleep. (3) House training. (4)Training, manners, learning to live in house with people. (5) Mental Exercise. (6) Physical exercise. The following schedule will meet puppy's needs within a schedule for a working person with a 9-5 job Monday thru Friday. Evenings and weekends are time to step up puppy's socialization and training time. Take your puppy in the car at least twice a week. Find a training class or a safe place for puppy to meet other dogs (Invite friends with social dogs to your house, take your pup to friends with dogs' yards). Take your pup somewhere new -a park, another walking route, a store that welcomes dogs, etc.) I recommend having the following things on hand: an appropriately sized crate, an ex-pen or gated area; 2 Kongs, a Kibble Nibble or other treat dispensing toy (s); bully sticks, cow hooves, safe dental chews, plush toys that squeak, a tug-toy, something to chase -tennis balls, Jolly Ball, frisbee, Tail Teaser; a dog bed; a water bowl which is always accessible; a collar, harness and leash; poop bags; high-quality puppy food; and some various healthy treats -boiled chicken, freeze-dried liver, etc.
Daily Schedule
6am - Wake up and take puppy outside to toilet. Deliver treat within one second of puppy eliminating. (3, 4)
6:10am - 7am Feed puppy in a gated area from a Kibble Nibble filled with dry, loose kibble and a Kong stuffed and frozen (which you prepared the night before) while you shower and prepare for work. Don't forget to wait for puppy to sit before giving him his food. (1, 4, 5)
7am- Take puppy out to toilet again. Treat when he goes. (3)
7:10-8am -Puppy is loose in house under your supervision. Spend time tossing a toy for puppy while you have coffee. Ask your puppy to come, sit and down 10 times each and reward with a treat. Ignore puppy intermittently (while still watching him!) during this time and answer emails, check phone, do dishes, etc. (4, 5)
8-8:30 -Walk puppy. Treat within one second when he eliminates. (5, 6, 3)
8:30am -12:30pm -In crate for nap and confinement when you are at work. Leave puppy with a safe chewy toy (Kong with a liver treat stuck deep inside, a bully stick, a nylabone). (2)
12:30-12-50pm -You are on lunch break or have arranged for someone to tend to your puppy. Puppy is taken outside for a 20 minute walk. Treat within one second when he eliminates. (5, 6, 3)
12:50-1:15pm: Play with puppy free in the house. Tug-of-war, Tail Teaser, toss a ball, and/or play and train with treats when puppy responds correctly. Eat your lunch while puppy if free. Take pup out one more time to toilet before you head back to work. Treat him if he goes. (6, 4, 3, 5)
1:15pm-5:15pm: In crate with a safe chew toy. (2)
5:15pm -5:30pm: Take puppy out to toilet and reward him when he goes. (3)
5:30 -6pm: In gated area with a food stuffed Kong and a Kibble Nibble. Good time for you to wind down, check in with family, and cook dinner. (1, 5)
6pm-6:30pm-free in house -play, train or love your puppy. Watch puppy for signs of needed to go out! Eat dinner. (4, 5)
6:30-7:15 - Evening exercise time: Play in the backyard, walk pup around neighborhood, take him to a local park, find empty tennis courts and let him run free, walk on the beach, etc. (3, 5, 6)
7:15 -9:30 -free in house with supervision. Watch pup for sign of needing to go out. Respond to any cues you see. Good time for a chewy like a bully stick or other safe chew. Spend 5-10 minutes training whatever pup needs -come, sit, down, on and off couch, etc. (4, 3, 5)
9:30-9:45 -short walk outside or time in yard to toilet before bed. Treat if he goes. (3, 5. 6)
9:45-10pm: Snuggle your puppy. Measure tomorrow's daily food portion and use it to load Kibble Nibble, 2 Kongs and leave the rest in a Tupperware on the counter for toileting treats and training. There should be no food remaining from the day after 9:30 pm. Prepare Kongs and pop them in the freezer for the next day.
10-6pm -In crate for the night. No chewy, no big fuss. Only attend to pup in the night if he cries out to toilet. (2)
Daily stats:
8 scheduled opportunities to toilet outside as well as appropriate supervision and confinement to assist house training.
16 hours to sleep in crate
2 scheduled feeding times and treats throughout the day for toileting and training. The feedings are completely from toys to encourage acceptable chewing, to decrease mouthiness and to provide mental stimulation and keep pup busy for longer than eating from a bowl.
Training and manners is happening all day with several specific opportunities to practice in 5-10 minute periods. Walking, sitting for toys and food, rewarding proper toileting and proper supervision and confinement all teach pup how to behave.
6 opportunities for mental exercise -eating from toys, playing with you and training time. There are also other chances to chew with also count as mental stimulation.
Three scheduled walks totally 95 minutes as well as anything else you add during pup's free time in the house with you.
8 hours a day pup is free in house, semi-confined in a gated area or is outside.
5 specific opportunities to chew appropriate items.
This is a vigorous schedule, but you have a puppy! This won't last forever. The more you rotate toys and exercise your pup physically and mentally, the easier it will be. Some of your personal goals may have to be put on hold while you raise your puppy. You may need to hire a neighbor or a dog sitter/walker to help you. Make friends with dogs and trade off sitting time. Hire a trainer for more help with anything that isn't working for you...sooner than later!
Between 4 and 6 months your pup should be able to sleep freely in your house, which will eliminate 8 hours in his crate! Between 8 months and 14 months he can be transitioned out of his crate and into the house without supervision, eliminating another 8 hours in a crate. By the time your puppy is a year, he will only need one or two good walks a day to maintain him physically. Mental exercise and training should continue throughout your dog's lifetime.
The Proper Use of a Crate
A crate can be very useful if you own a dog. It is very helpful for house-training, home alone training, to prevent destructiveness and may serve as a dog’s safe area. It’s good to train a dog to be comfortable while confined in a crate to help it at the vet, groomer, during travel and if the dog needs to be confined for any other reason. A crate should not be where the dog spends most of its time.
A crate should be purchased to fit your dog when it is fully grown. It should be big enough for the dog to stand upright, turn around and sleep in comfortably. If the crate is housing a puppy, a portion can be blocked off to suit the size of the puppy and more space can be given as it grows. Some crates come with a divider, or a cardboard box can fill up the space nicely for dogs that don’t chew. If a puppy or dog eliminates in a crate, it has most likely been left in the crate longer than it could hold its bladder. The crate only encourages puppies to hold “it.” It’s not a magic teacher. Many dog owners make the mistake of leaving the puppy too long in the crate when no one is home, causing the puppy to have a negative experience in the crate.
A puppy should only be left in a crate for as many hours as its age in months plus one. If you have a three month old puppy, it shouldn’t be confined to a crate longer than four hours without being given the freedom to eliminate and get some mental and physical exercise. The crate is a tool and its use should be adjusted with the age and progress of the puppy. It’s proper to use the crate to teach a puppy to hold it bladder while indoors. As the puppy learns this, it should be in the crate less and less over time. By six months, most puppies should have earned their freedom in the house and going in the crate should be a choice, not a necessity.
When puppies are crated for too many hours and for too many months they, as well as their owners, become reliant on the crate to control the puppy’s behavior. This is very detrimental. Dogs are not meant to be caged. Crating a dog for a workday of 8-10 hours often results in an under exercised, mentally and physically under stimulated dog. This can lead to hyperactivity, destructiveness, mouthing, barking and jumping as a means to get the attention and stimulation dogs crave. It becomes a vicious cycle. Owners crate the dog to prevent such things, but crating the dog also causes these behaviors to develop. As soon as a puppy is crate trained, there needs to be a plan to give the puppy more freedom and teach it how to behave in the house.
If you are interested in more information on crate training or need more information on raising a puppy, you may call me or read Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar or Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Dr. Sophia Yin.
For dogs that do not like to go in the crate, here is a video of me helping one dog re-learn to like his crate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFVwktHyQTE